All power is solar power is it not? Or did God create fossil fuels out of nothing?
But modern plants use residues that can otherwise be a niusance to get rid of. (Old tyres for example.)
An additive is put in the mixture so that tubs of it can be stored on site. It is ideal in confined conditions and saves a labourer or two. The problem is that the people who make it can sometimes send out a poorly co-ordinated set of batches.
That and it might be crap. I wouldn't know.
It means spreadability. The stuff is splodgy. Wet sand is workable as long as you keep it aereated that means continuallyt stirring it. When it is fatty it can be left standing for ages.
I know that plasterboard has been in use for 40 to 50 years or more. Which about the same time finishing plaster was sold in bags the way it is now. Prior to that ceilings were a bugger to do. And they had to be done using reinforced mortar.
I imagine that cement mortar would set too quickly for the facilities available in those days and of course - before. Cement or lime, the process was a real bugger to do with all the laths nailed at 14 or 16 inch centres.
Indeed and there are good reasons why lime should be used and not Portland cement in some circumstances. It's completely bloody stupid to point, patch or repair brickwork on a property built using lime mortar with Portland cement. It will do more damage than good.
When PB came out it had a coarser surface than todays and was nailed in place then all the joints covered with strips of 2" or so wide wood. I saw a place done like this once, it looked terrible. Whatever possessed them to do it like that? I thought it dated back to the 30s, but not sure.
LOL That was not plasterboard, it was white asbestos sheets quite common in early 30s houses. I can even supply a picture of a ceiling still like that.
I have raised the issue of pozzolans (yet again) and to what extent they reduce the self healing properties. By whimpering I guess you mean daring to question
When this farmhouse was rebuilt, the builders added a couple of shovels of lime to the mix to *whiten* the end result. The bricks are somewhere between soft and hard with normal foundations. Ten years on, the mortar is still sound:-) Not a good match for exposed bits of Victorian stuff as it is slightly yellow but much better than the khaki colour of my masonry mix garage.
There is plenty of chalk locally and also grey river clay. I don't know what the original builders used but it has visible chunks of chalk as though through improper crushing. The chimney mortar was still soft and very similar to river clay.
I note that Rugby masonry cement currently contains *fly ash* and that the concrete floor recommendation included *slag cement* as a retarder.
The message from snipped-for-privacy@care2.com contains these words:
I saw post-war prefabs done like that. A friend of mine lived in one, though it had been much extended over the years and the original prefab bit was like a core in the middle. He once shoved his sister's head through the wall so I can assure you it was asbestos not plasterboard.
No these were relatively soft, unlike asbestos cement which is very hard. Could be dented with fingernails. I've seen these boards occasionally but dont know exactly what theyre called.
I thought they still used sugar as a retarder. Jim'll Mix It etc Anyway, to return to the lime discussion. If the uncarbonated lime in Durham Cathedral has been protected from carbon dioxide by the carbonated mortar on the surface, it suggests that lime is capable of forming an airtight seal, which in turn suggests that the building would be unable to breathe.....
To the lime skeptics here, I suggest a little more trying it out.
For an investment of =A35 for a bag of builders lime you can experiment for yourselves (and pound for a bucket, pound for some sharp sand - if you don't have them lying about).
Find out for yourselves how easy it is to work with, experiment with mixes, find out how long different sized lumps take to form a first and second set and to gain most of it's strength.
And if you're not happy, you can rake it out again much more easily than cement.
(and if you are, you have the rest ready to use in a covered bucket).
Must check my mum's bathroom when I'm up there in the next few weeks - she's got panels about 2-3' square with strips of wood about 2-3" wide edging them, in a 1920s-1930s house. I just thought it was a feature.
You can buy white cement, if you are just concerned about colour matching (probably need to go to a good builder's merchant. Sand can have a lot of pigment in it too -- that varies enormously.
Ooooh goodie an opportunity to wibble about lime ...
For some jobs
Dunno which jobs tho cos I wouldnt do this - bricklaying perhaps? Dont risk it for external rendering
Homemade putty with bagged lime is much cheaper than bought putty
Labour costs are higher with lime cos more tending is needed due to slower setting time and also cos there is a shortage of good lime plasterers so they charge more
=========
Better to use a well graded sand. My supplier sells it as 'plastering sand'. For rendering I would try 3 sharp to 1 soft sand as a substitute for well graded sand (um never have needed to tho ...) For bricklaying a softer mix is better
==========
TNP playing devils advocate again I see
Cement based mortars are better in continually damp stuations
and you should choose the one appropriate to the situation, bearing in mind that big business has been promoting the concrete and strong hydraulic lime end of the spectrum for many years
============
Its not. I use hessian sheeting :)
=============
With lime you dont need to leave expansion joints so it looks more aesthetically pleasing
=============
Difference of cement to lime putty is more impurities (silicon mostly) and higher temperature of production
Lime putty cycle is:
Chalk or limestone + heat Drives off CO2 and H20, producing quicklime (dangerous!) Add H2O to produce lime putty Take it out of the tub and put it on the wall Add CO2 from the air and it becomes chemically equivalent to limestone / chalk once again
The cement cycle is the same with added twiddles
Processing lime uses less CO2 cos it is not cooked so much. Transportation of lime uses more CO2 because there are less economies of scale, unless you make your own quicklime (and loads of enthusiasts do)
==========
More workable, user friendly. Cement mortar often has lime added simply to make it fatter. Cement + Lime + sand is a cement mortar not a lime mortar. These days FebXXX often gets used instead of lime
============
There we open up another can of worms. Lime mortar used to be used both indoors and out. Nowadays cement mortar is used outdoors and gypsum mortar / plasterboard is used indoors
===========
Lime mortar with no cement sets OK Cement mortar with no lime sets OK Cement mortar with a little lime as a plasticiser sets OK Lime mortar with a little cement added 'to help it set' may not set OK
Cement is very fine, fills up the pores in the mortar, CO2 cant get to the lime so poor lime set. Not much cement so poor cement set and the result is a poorly set mortar
Sadly many good and experienced builders do not know this. They know lots about concrete but lime mortar is very poorly understood
================
Anna ~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England |""""| ~ Lime plaster repair and conservation / ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc |____|
Yes it does reduce the self healing properties but by how much i dont know
=========
Joke not - It has been done! It works fine but the clients start lookig suspicious
=========
Anna ~~ Anna Kettle, Suffolk, England |""""| ~ Lime plaster repair and conservation / ^^ \ // Freehand modelling in lime: overmantels, pargeting etc |____|
The bible says he "hung it upon nothing" and that he "created it not for nothing". I don't remember a quote from that source implying he made it "out of nothing".
Notwithstanding wild guesses about cosmogeny, I was actually asking you where the oil came from. Not that I don't already know. I was just wondering how circular your reasoning could get around to.
ISTR a thread about making motrar with soda water for quicker set, and I tihnk someone calculated that the amount of CO2 would be a drop in the ocean of what the lime will use as it sets. But maybe it provides a little head start.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.