I have a concrete kitchen floor that is not level enough for my liking.
I am about to lay ceramic tiles. It is basically a valley. The high
points are along opposite walls, and the low point is 18mm down and
about 2.5m from the highest point (roughly 2/3 the way across the room).
If I use self levelling compound then I'm going to need 8-10 20kg bags.
But, if I manage to reduce the level of just a one metre strip along the
high-point wall by 12mm, then all I'll need is 2-3 bags.
I have my trusty little angle grinder that I've slowly done a small area
by cutting lots of slices and then chiselling the bits out. But do you
reckon a grinding cup wheel would be a better/quicker solution?
The room is sealed from the rest of the house, and I have a decent face
mask. I've made a quick calculation and the amount of concrete that
needs to be removed is about 2/3 cubic foot.
Ta for any comments or alternative suggestions.
Do what I did.
Buy a spirit level, some string and an awful lot of quick setting tile
And roughly fill in the worst bits with scrap cement and tiles left over
from the process as its cheaper to use broken tile and cement to fill
that 18mm gap, than straight cement.
“it should be clear by now to everyone that activist environmentalism
(or environmental activism) is becoming a general ideology about humans,
Sounds like a hard way to do it. I would use a sand and cement screed to
half fill the deepest "holes", say bringing them up to only 5mm below
level, and then slap half a dozen bags of self levelling latex cement on
It's not - a regular cement mixer works just fine. I worked to a
different document (Cementone IIRC) which did not mention forced mixing.
You could even mix by hand, but mix well and keep the water down as teh
SBR acts as a plasticiser so you need less water than expected.
The important thing is to soak the area in 1:1 diluted SBR first and
allow to dry, then paint on an SBR/water/pure cement slurry *just*
before you apply the screed. This is the primer they refer to (the
Cementone document went into more depth).
The end result IME is that the screed is bonded to the top 10-20mm of
Don't have high spots as I did in one area, about 10sq inches. It took
30 minutes with an SDS and a scutch comb chisel to cut it back - it
really was like iron.
Also - wear gloves and take heed of the cleaning your tools bit in the
doc :) This stuff will bond to stainless steel forever - I still have a
mixing bowl that has slurry on it.
I would use an SBR regime too - SBR added to the mixing water for the
screed, and paint the existing floor with SBR where the extra screed
You can take it down to 10mm without fear of the new screed crumbling
and it will bond like iron to the old stuff. Also tile cement loves SBR
Yup, sand and cement screeds can normally only go so thin (else the
edges crack away when walked on). However you may be able to go a bit
under that for something that will be re-screeded in latex since that
will protect the edges.
So basically fill all the big holes with sand and cement (+SBR), then
cover everything with the levelling compound.
There would be lots of dust if I went this route, that's for sure.
I think the house was probably built like that. There are no signs of
cracks in the floor, although there was subsidence 20+ years ago (that
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