Can anyone reccommend a boiler repair fella in the South manchester area pls?
My glowworm spacresaver F has givenup. Its not the fan(my suspision is the pressure switch). Ta. Pls email me if you know of someone who's not going to rip me off.....or know of some cowboys for me to avoid.
Have you considered D-I-Y? You should be able to get a new pressure switch - if that's what it is.
In order to verify this, you could try wiring a manual switch in parallel with the pressure switch. When the fan starts up but the boiler doesn't fire (I presume that's the symptom?) flick your manual switch on. If the boiler then fires ok, this indicates that it *is* the pressure switch at fault - provided that the fan's shifting a reasonable amount of air, of course.
[I'm sure that some will frown on this approach - but it's what I would do if it were mine].Roger
The pressure switch is often fed by plastic tube which get ruptured. I've test switches by sucking on the tube.
Lo and behold I frown! You will effectively connect the wires on the seperate poles of the APS together there is no guarantee that this is a harmless thing to do from the perspective of the control circuits.
At least as likely as the APS itself are the sensing tubes and there inlets.
In message , Roger Mills writes
Well, that would potentially have the common connected to the normally closed and normally open connections simultaneously if the membrane has ruptured. I'm not quite sure whether this might blow something on the pcb.
How to test an air pressure switch:
with the power to the boiler off, remove the air pressure switch connector on the pcb. It is a 4 pin molex connector on the fuelsaver, with 3 wires coming out. You should be able to check which is the normally closed, common and normally open from looking for the corresponding colour wires on the microswitch on the APS. Using a multimeter (checking the lead resistance by touching them together), look for less than an ohm resistance between the normally closed and common on the molex connector. (Doing it this way will also check out the wiring to the APs as well as the pressure switch itself). The aps body should have one or two rubber hoses connected to it. Pull the other end of the tube off so you can activate the APS by sucking or blowing. Depending on which tube, either suck or blow GENTLY to activate the microswitch and test the common to normally open contacts on the molex connector, again this should be less than an ohm.
Job done
Lastly check that the tubes to the APS aren't blocked
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