Headphone socket

I have a Marshall MG30FDX guitar amp that has a suspect headphone socket and believe me, for the sanity of my wife and our neighbours, I _need_ the headphone socket to work! :-)

I'm not into electronics at all and don't have the necessary equipment to de-solder the existing socket from the pcb and install a new one, but luckily a friend of mine does, so he's going to do it for me. As I live within walking distance of CPC, I was just going to get one from there but it's not the sort of place where you can go in and ask advice easily. It's more like Argos and Screwfix where you pick stuff from a catalogue first then go to the counter with catalogue numbers, so when I searched the website and it came back with more than a dozen results, I'm lost.

I've opened the case and it physically looks like this one, but switched? unswitched? I'm assuming switched because as you plug in the headphones, it cuts out the speaker but I'd be happier if someone could confirm it.

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schematic for the amp, if you need it, is here
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if the above doesn't work.

TIA

Reply to
Manticore
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Switched is what's needed. The one you found in the catalogue will do the job. The only problem might be if it's PCB mounted, in which case you'll need to check that the spacings match.

Reply to
John Williamson

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>>> The schematic for the amp, if you need it, is here

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>>> or
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if the above doesn't work.

Thanks very much John. Yes, it is PCB mounted so thanks for pointing out the spacings thing.

Reply to
Manticore

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but that is designed for wire termination not a PCB. Hence you will probably need:

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possibly:

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The schematic for the amp, if you need it, is here

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> or
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if the above doesn't work.

Reply to
John Rumm

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> The schematic for the amp, if you need it, is here

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> or
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if the above doesn't work.

While you are in CPC look in the book for switch cleaner and spray that down the socket and on the guitar plug, insert it and remove several times and see it this solves your problem (I am assuming crackle and hiss here.)

Dave

Reply to
Dave

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> Close, but that is designed for wire termination not a PCB. Hence you

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> or possibly:

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>>> The schematic for the amp, if you need it, is here

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>>> or
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if the above doesn't work.

Ah, right, thanks very much John, the first one you linked to looks like the very beastie.

Reply to
Manticore

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>>> The schematic for the amp, if you need it, is here

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>>> or
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if the above doesn't work.

Crackle and hiss it is indeed Dave so a good suggestion. I'll get a socket just in case but will try the cleaner as the easiest option first. Thanks.

Reply to
Manticore

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>>>>> The schematic for the amp, if you need it, is here

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>>>>> or
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if the above doesn't work.

Since it's a switched socket virtually anything (long enough and will fit in the hole) will disconnect the speaker (non-conducting of course). Is your crackle and hiss therefore in the headphones? Give it (and the jack) a spray.

Reply to
brass monkey

In message , brass monkey writes

When I was heavily into guitar amps and could still lift one, I hated that sort of socket. British amps had rigid pcb's that broke when you dropped the amp and hopeless jack sockets. American amps like Fender had cardboard-like bendy boards and sockets like

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had much better spring tension and any dirt could be seen and washed away.

I know Neutrik are a good make, but I still hate those plastic enclosed jack sockets. I have some EchoAudio computer soundcards that use strange double decker enclosed jack sockets and they are terrible when asked to cope with the normal variations in the shape of jack plugs.

Reply to
Bill

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>>> Close, but that is designed for wire termination not a PCB. Hence you

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>>> or possibly:

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>>>>>> The schematic for the amp, if you need it, is here

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>>>>> or
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if the above doesn't work.

Given the price, you could always buy a few examples of different ones to give you mate with the soldering iron best chance of getting a match.

Reply to
John Rumm

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