Hardwood door finish

I'm about to replace a hardwood door, bought very cheaply from Magnet Trade. The existing door is stained dark brown to match the house (see other posts) but I want to try this one with a light finish, it leads into a utility room with oak fittings.

Can anyone suggest a wood stain that doesn't stain! I know I could use varnish, but it will peel and crack.

Reply to
Nigel Molesworth
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How about oiling it? I find oil to be a very pleasing and easy to maintain finish.

What is the wood?

Reply to
Grunff

I did wonder about oil, but there is a possibility that I might want to use a darker colour if I don't like the light colour.

I guess it is Sapele, cheap and cheerful.

Reply to
Nigel Molesworth

If so, it'll go red as soon as you put even a clear finish on it. Wet it with water or white spirit to get an idea of how it'll look. Sapele does bleach rather well though if you can be bothered.

Reply to
Stuart Noble

Thanks, I did wonder.

Oxalic acid?

Reply to
Nigel Molesworth

A woodstain that doesn't stain? thats a gooden. ;-)

Take a picture of part of the wall that has the old door on and then take another picture of the same positon with the new door on use paintshop to highlight the wood in different light shades. Personally I prefer light wood doors as it makes things look clean along with wood flooring in the same colour.

Reply to
The3rd Earl Of Derby

I think I guessed wrong. I've now had another look and compared it with wood that I know is Sapele, this is lighter.

Here's a photo (with a wet bit) if anyone knows:

The colour, even wet, is pretty good. So I'm looking for a sealant that will not darken it. That's what I meant by "a wood stain that doesn't stain".

Reply to
Nigel Molesworth

Beech is light, and I cant get to that jpg?

Reply to
The3rd Earl Of Derby

Clear varnish will give the same result either gloss or satin.

Reply to
The3rd Earl Of Derby

Sadolin used to do a 'colourless' stain - interior use only. Any good?

Lynet

Reply to
Lynet Smith

No, a 2 part peroxide bleach. Part 1 will turn it alarmingly dark. Leave it to dry, then lightly sand. Part 2 doesn't look promising either until it's completely dry. It seems like you're back to square one, except you shouldn't get the red when you finish it. Not a procedure to be undertaken lightly. It's messy, requires synthetic fibre brushes, plastic gloves, and should really be done outdoors.

Reply to
Stuart Noble

The wet bit looks a bit on the warm side to me.

Reply to
Stuart Noble

Used to do a what? Do they do transparent paint as well?

Reply to
Stuart Noble

Needs to be for exterior use, but that's the sort of thing. I've just have bad experiences with varnish, so I'd rather get something a bit more flexible.

Reply to
Nigel Molesworth

Fitted a cheap door from Wickes which looks similar in colour to your jpeg. We used their clear professional "woodstain" - that what it says on the tin anyway :) It did what it said in that it didn't change the colour, but I'm not completely convinced about it's waterproofing properties...

Lee

Reply to
Lee

You can still get that - they call it white spirit.

Reply to
Rob Morley

I went here with my windows. Basically you are out of luck.

The woodstatins with stain in them have UV inhibitors, which stopes the UV light damageing the wood. This damage is seen by the wood going silver/grey.

U/V inhibitors are very expensive, so in clear products you are needing to buy expensive boat varnish, and appy 8+ layers, every 3-5 years.

In the end I went with the sikens range.

Rick

Reply to
Rick

I love that look.

Reply to
Nigel Molesworth

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