I won't bother with the breaking plier, I'll try Adrian's method with duct tape on an existing pair.
What type of cutter do you use, diamond or wheel? I just phoned Homebase and their OB version has a single hardened wheel and sells at £5. Ebay has a lot to offer in that price range, including a German one, with 5 replacement wheels. Not worth spending on a high-end model, due to low usage.
Should be OK - take it gently!
Most glass folks will use a variation on a wheel-based cutter.
I use mostly pistol-grip cutters (3rd one along on this page)
but that's just because I find them easier, and it's less strain on the wrists after a day cutting glass. The 'pencil-grip' type should be fine for what you're doing. Experiment to find a way of holding it that lets you get enough pressure, without stopping you from being able to 'guide' it.
Find a spare bit of window-glass, and cut a 2"-wide strip. Then start off making short cuts across the glass to make it into 2" squares (if it's a bit second-hand, don;t forget to clean it well first. The slightest bit of grit on the glass will make your cutter 'skip', and that's not going to help.)
Once you've got a stack of perfect 2" squares. Cut yourself another strip, and then practice cutting 's'-shaped lines across it.
Once you've done that, you'll have got the feel of it, and you should be able to have a go at the actual job.
Adrian
I believe the crack propagates at the speed of sound in the material.(Googles ...) - yes, approx 11,000mph for glass.
Agreed - you want to avoid stress concentrations apart from the one along your cutting line... If you happen to have some pliers like these
A diamond cutter is the best. You must get the cut in a single "stroke". If you do it again, the crack runs off the line. You can also get a tool like pilers that "folds" the glass to break it.
Cutting a hole requires a "compass" device to get a single circulat cut that joins exctly. More smaller concentric scores are made and about twelve radial ones. They must not cross the outer ring. The glass is broken out from the centre by tapping it. Only works on new glass. I have had a high cockup rate too.
Ever tried cutting a radius with a standard cutter? I have
Google brings up 'Toyo' a lot in the mid-price range:-
Yes - that particular one is a 'Chinese copy' - see the line "These are not TOYO HEADS OR HANDLES just same style".
But - having said that, they're half the price of the genuine item - and would be perfectly fine for occasional use. I have both the pukka Toyo, and 'copy' Toyo cutters in the workshop, and I tend to use whichever one's closest at the time - I'm not sure I can tell the difference between them.
If you're feeling extravagant , the same supplier will do you a pair of 'no name' grozing pliers for under 9 quid.
Adrian
Nothing to it. Dead easy.
If you sign a pact with the Devil....
Not quite accurate Chris;
1) Buy glass cutter 2) Scribe radius and attempt to break glass along it 3) Glass breaks in entirely the wrong direction and is discarded 4) repeat 2) and 3) on second piece of glass 4a) apply plasters to cut fingers 5) go to glazier and get it done professionally
Still at the project planning stage. I'll try using tape on some bull-nosed pliers. The duct tape will also come in handy, if I run out of Elastoplast.
See - you're getting the hang of it already!
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