I've just emptied my sitting room, in order to sand the floor and
decorate. There are some lengths of floorboard that I've previously
had up, by cutting our the tongues. There's now a raging draught
through the gaps (suspended floor with air bricks underneath). Does
anyone have any suggestions how I could fill the gaps in such a way
that I could still remove the boards if required? Permanent solutions
like glueing in slivers of wood, or string, aren't appropriate. All
I've come up with so far is taking them up, and running a bead of
silicone along the edge of the adjoining boards, letting it go off
before refitting my loose boards, to act as a kind of washer.
Floorboards will be exposed and I can't apply it from underneath.
Yeah, thanks. I've neither the time nor the inclination to rip up the
whole floor, though I've been tempted. This has been discussed here
before - I think a means of insulating under a suspended wooden floor,
with insufficient access underneath, without taking it up, is one of
the holy grails... Helium-propelled expanding foam, perhaps ;-)
Because, as I said, I may need to be able to lift the boards again
For access to plumbing and electrics, which is why they were lifted in
the first place.
The boards had shrunk slightly over time. The tongues were removed
neatly with a jigsaw.
You might be right, in that the board might just push it off the other
board. Hence my request for other suggestions.
Worth a thought.
If anyone else has any further suggestions as to how I might fill the
gaps in such a way that I could still remove the boards if required,
they will be gratefully received.
On Thu, 4 Feb 2010 02:26:18 -0800 (PST), geraldthehamster
Why are " slivers of wood " not an option .Do you not have any old
floorboards that match as that's what I did where there were gaps
....cut tapered slices of board and glued them in . Mind you I had
also lifted most of the boards and squeezed them up closer and it was
a big job .
If you only removed the tongues was it done neatly ? why are there
gaps ...the boards should still fit together closely without the
tongues . I'd still be inclined to lift them ..close them up and find
a piece to fill the ensuing gap .
Silicone ....Nah ..Don't think so .
As you say that you are sanding the floor I assume that you are leaving the
Any solution therefore would need to look good as well as work.
New floorboards to replace damaged ones, with then may have thickness and
After the sanding coloured silicon in all gaps almost like grouting tiles?
Nail punch all nails below the surface and fill all the holes with same
Then seal the floor?
And why would you want to be able to take the boards up again easily?
Have not done this myself
Have seen this done in bathrooms of houses to let
Looked OK and stopped water getting through. Saved putting down a floor
covering as well
I do not think that it would look any different to the gapfill suggested
below and would be I think cheaper
Also saw something similar years ago when doing house rewiring where the
gaps were filled with what looked like wax
Yes, I've seen a sample and, providing it remains flexible (that's
probably a big "if"), it looks like the best solution. Cutting strips
doesn't really work unless the gaps are uniform and not tapered. Best to
shove all the boards up and cut just the one wide strip from a matching
That's what I'd go for as well even if it is a fair bit of work . If
the tongues have been cut off neatly ( as OP says they have ) then the
boards should sit together quite well and to enable some to be lifted
in the future use countersunk screws . This is one time when looking
for fast fixes is not the answer .
For clarity, the affected boards are not adjacent, but are three
individual cut lengths of board at intervals along one wall.
If all that you are looking for is to stop draughts why not fix 25mm wide
strips of thin ply to the underside of the adjacent fixed board with
sufficient overlap (with wood glue and clamp till set) and then simply lay
the removable boards back in place
Floorboard gaps revisited:
I've done this now, and followed your suggestion. I cut some lengths
from scrap thin timber and ply, between one and two inches wide, to
fit under the edges of the adjoining floorboards, between the joists
(so each bit of wood was around 400mm long).
After some attempt at nailing upside down, I found the easiest way was
to start off a couple of small screws in what would become the
underside of the strip, run a bead of glue along the other side, place
under the edge of the adjoining board, have a glamorous assistant hold
one end while driving home one screw with a driver, from underneath,
then drive home the other screw.
That looks possible as well. If it's flexible it probably wouldn't
stop the floorboard being lifted. Quite expensive, and more on a roll
than I need, though I have other floorboards about the place whose
turn will come.
In article < firstname.lastname@example.org
We had the same problem in daughters bedroom. Filled the gaps with clear
silicone and took the surplus off with a very sharp knife .
Sanded lightly, result holes plugged and looks quite natural i.e. leaves
the artistic gaps but no wind thru them at all:)..
And if you wanted one up a sharp knife to cut the sealant .. job
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.