Extending a hose pipe under the house

Okay, in short I am looking to put a water tap at the front of my house, but with a little twist.

I have an outside tap in the back yard, but no easy way to run the hose pipe around the front of the house. What I would like to do is run a pipe under the house, with a Hoselock connection at each end, and link that up to the tap whenever I need it.

Now, ground floor of the house sits about three feed off ground level outside, so I can run a pipe under the ground floor no problem, and the pipe can come out the wall above ground level at each end (front and back) and still all below the DPC.

The idea of just linking it up when I need it means that I don't have to worry about pipes under the floor at mains pressure during the Winter, and subject to potential leaks.

How I think it would look would be a wall tap one the house wall at front and back. To run water through I just click in a short length of hose with Hoselock connections in the back yard between the tap and the water outlet.

Plumbing-wise, I avoid any joints or connections inside the house, and avoid any plumbing that I would not be so comfortable doing.

So the question (assuming this is not a really silly idea) is: what kind of pipe would I run between the front and the back of the house under the floor? It will not be at mains pressure 99% of the time (only when it is being used) so does not need to be heavy duty and presumably expensive. However, I do want something a bit more reliable than a hose-pipe that could split. The length would be about

50 foot.

Hope that makes sense!

-- Jason

Reply to
Jason
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level outside,

used) so does

Run it in blue mdpe and use mdpe -> 3/4 BSP converters each end to make it Hozelock compatible. If you can crawl in the space I'd personally insulate the MDPE.

Even MDPE is not entirely vermin proof, but will stand freezing unlike garden hose which frequently splits when frozen.

AWEM

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

Have a look at MDPE

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Speedfit BPEX
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way, assuming that you can get into the space under the floor, support the pipe with clips fixed to joists at regular intervals.

Reply to
Roger Mills

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Cool - that looks just the business, and at a price I was hoping for. Thanks (and you too, Andrew).

The pipe can be clipped or it could just be laid across the ground - I have good access. What would happen if did not use clips? Is it more likely to freeze and get damaged?

-- JJ

Reply to
Jason

If not clipped, it will almost certainly retain some water - which could freeze. It comes in a coil, and so needs constraining in same way to keep it straight(ish). Left to its own devices, it will try to coil up again.

If possible, I would suggest clipping it in such a way that the highest point is in the middle, sloping down to each end. It should then be easy to ensure that all water drains out at the beginning of each winter.

Reply to
Roger Mills

ground - I have good

highest

seldom

A tip: pass hot water through it after you have uncoiled it, and stretch it a bit - it take the wiggles out to a certain extent

AWEM

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

Both MDPE & Speedfit coiled pipe are terrible for wanting to spring back into a coil when let go, HEP2O non barrier pipe is less so:

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item 14979 Even so I would run a line first and pull the pipe through rather than trying to thread the pipe itself.

I'd be inclined to leave the pipe on the dirt, after all it is really a hose rather than a pipe, not continuously exposed to mains pressure and not subject to passing traffic that might damage it.

In cold weather, make sure everything is disconnected from the hozelok fittings and if there is any freezing the open ends should relieve any pressure. Plas pipes seem to cope well with any girth expansion on freezing.

BES do 15mm to 3/4" bsp brass male compression fittings that will directly take a plastic hozelok threaded adapter. Don't forget the pipe inserts for use with compression fittings.

Reply to
fred

Mentioned before, but I simply ran some of the soft type hose up the back of the downpipes and along in the gutters round to the other side of the house. Works fine, mostly hidden, and doesn't split because gravity empties it for you. Nice 'Y' connector on the tap

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can also be flipped out of the gutter when I want to wash the car, and flipped back in afterwards (house is on a slope).

S
Reply to
Spamlet

Strangely enough, a neighbour four doors up did this *exact* same job this weekend. He used blue pipe from Wickes, has run it out of the wall at the front and back, and extended it up the wall using copper pipe to a tap at each end. He is also using a small length of hookup pipe to link the tap at the back to the mains outlet using Hoselock fittings when needed. It is strange how great minds think alike ;-)

He only used half of the 25m of piping he bought, so I there is another half going free, plus I have a working system I can see :-)

-- Jason

Reply to
Jason

Good idea. Presumably I would do this after the pipe has been "laid" under the floor (I use that term lightly because I expect the pipe will tell *me* where it is going to go, rather than go where it is told - until the hot water trick).

-- Jason

Reply to
Jason

I can crawl around under the floor where the pipe is going to go, so have access to the underside of the ground floor joists which would be easy to fix the clips to.

I don't think it gets cold enough to freeze under there at the moment, but that could be considered a floor insulation problem that I also need to fix at some point.

-- Jason

Reply to
Jason

Arrange it so the end at the rear of the house is lower than at the front. When you disconnect it open the tap at the front, and the water will drain out.

Use normal hose, it will be empty when not in use (no frost damage) and under the house (no UV damage from sunlight) so should last for years.

MBQ

Reply to
Man at B&Q

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