My house was built in 1991. It has cavity walls, into which 1"-thick sheets of foam polystyrene were inserted during the build.
as the cavity is 4" wide, there is still a lot of air movement within the cavity, and as far as I can tell, the insulation is therefore having very little effect.
I would like to have additional insulation injected into the cavities in order to eliminate the air movement.
Can this be done, and what material would be suitable and economical?
TIA,
Al
Assuming the sheets have been fixed correctly and have taped joints there would be no airflow across the barrier so they would still insulate. Not the
1" of polystyrene is a good insulator.
You need a specialist to have a look. You can get blown fibre for ~£100 subsidised by TNP and all. Your electricity provider will probably do it along with all the "have you had your insulation grant" telemarketing companies.
I have 18" of insulation in my walls.
Well there you go Al. The answer is to knock down your house and rebuild it with an 18" cavity.
May have been a walls/between ears typo . . . .
No, the house had 8" solid brick walls. I built another wall ouside 18"away filled with insulation. I have no central heating. TV/computer/freezer keeps the house warm.
"harryagain" wrote in news:j1udk2$rc7$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
I envy you! OOC, what insulation did you use? Is the new outer wall also brick?
Al
The insulation is mineral wool bats. The new outer wall is Duralite blocks, cement rendered over. The house is part earth sheltered. The roof has a foot of Kingspan foam board.
"harryagain" wrote in news:j21elo$m65$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
What kind of windows do you have?
Al
Opening windows are double gazed plastic I bought second hand. The fixed windows I made myself. They are quadruple glazed, (ie two double glazing units)
All windows are fitted with insulated shutters which are closed by night.
"harryagain" wrote in news:j233vk$uvk$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
some of those will be one of my next projects.
Al
I have lift off hinges. Small windows are easy, big ones are hard (to get a good fit). They need to be absolutely flat &s quare.
One mistake I made so you avoid it. Because they are so thick, special precautions have to be taken at the catch side (non-hinge) so they can close without fouling the frame and still be a good fit. I made mine tapered. I think it would have been better to have had a "step". (And also in the frame to match).
They need to be completely airtight with draught seals. (from Screwfix). Do the windy or North side of the house first unless there are overidingother reasons. Or maybe do a practicer un on a small one.
Mine has a slab of foam inside, cut a bit small and "foamed in " with canned foam. (Cheapest from Screwfix) Because it's foamedin they can be of really light construction, the foam makes it really strong and ridgid. You justneedbits ofwood where the catches and hinges are to go
They work really well,makeahuge difference.
"harryagain" wrote in news:j28ob7$mms$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
Thanks for the guidance... That's helpful.
Al
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