Build it yourself trailers - companies selling kits?

I've tried Google/Froogle searches but didn't come up with much, are there any companies selling kits for build-it-yourself trailers? I want a simple trailer that I can use in the garden (7 acres of it) and for transporting stuff on the road (i.e. it has to be road legal).

My ideal would be one that can carry 8'x4' sheet material. It doesn't have to have solid sides or bottom, the type made of mesh would be fine.

Any ideas anyone?

Reply to
usenet
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There's a place in Leeds which sells components (rather than kits) but I guess that's a bit far for you?

Mary

Reply to
Mary Fisher

All the mechanical bits are available easily.

They seem to be cheapest on

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You will to decide on your weight capacity and number of axles. If you're taking 8'x4' sheets, you will probably want brakes. Not only are they required for > 750kg (which is quickly reached transporting rubble or plasterboard), but they are very useful for ground handling. If your car isn't huge, you might even need brakes below 750kg.

Twin axle is nice. They make it more stable to drive and more stable to load. However, it will increase costs as you have twice as much of most of the mechicanal components, although for the same trailer rating, lower rated (i.e. cheaper) components can be used as the load is shared.

So, if you're going for a single axle braked, I'd get something like:

BB1300 1300kg braked suspension unit * 2 = 217.04 SW385J6 185x13 6ply 4x5.5"pcd * 2 = 193.64 PH15 Peak Coupling 1500kg A/R 43mm J/W = 116.01 Total = 526.69 (rated up to 1300kg, upgradable to 1500kg cheaply if required)

For twin axle, I'd get BB750 750kg braked suspension unit * 4 = 412.84 SW150C6 500x10 6ply 4x4" pcd = 146.64 PH15 Peak Coupling 1500kg A/R 43mm J/W = 116.01 Total = 675.49 (rated up to 1500kg) This could cheaply be upgraded to much higher ratings if required.

Single axle unbraked is much cheaper: TG750 750kg short stub suspension unit * 2 = 57.88 HG505S hub 4x4" pcd 1" dia stub *2 = 30.50 SW150C6 500X10 6ply 4x4" pcd = 73.32 BA254 Al-Ko 50mm coupling 50mm box = 15.05 Total = 175.75 (rated to 750kg) This ratng can't be increased. There will be no handbrake or vehicle service braking.

If buying any of these components, check with the supplier that they are indeed compatible.

The braked versions will also require a number of sundries, such as brake balance plates, etc. These are not expensive.

Then you just need some angle iron and a welder. I'm sure you can find some designs with a little searching. You can fit the sides and floor with plywood or mesh as you see fit. Make sure it is strong enough for your chosen rating.

The suspension units just bolt onto the chassis near the middle. Ensure that empty, it weighs down on the coupling. Don't forget the electrics, which are simple as anything.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

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is pretty good for bits; not kits as such, you'd have to come up with your own "shopping list" and design though.

David

Reply to
Lobster

Indespension used to do (and may still sell) a "trailer manual" which included sketch designs and parts list, as well as much useful stuff on trailers and towing in general. I've always found them expensive for parts, and the service at my local branch is, shall we say, not always the most helpful. Abbey Trailers, in Derby, otoh, are extraordinarily pleasant to deal with. Dunno about a website, mind, I don't think they've had the electric all that long.

Rubber-in-compression suspension units (Indespension, Avonride, Bradley, many others) are, to me, appallingly crude pieces of engineering, but people still buy them. Once they start failing the wheel alignment goes to pot and they wear tyres out very quickly. Ifor Williams used to use multi-leaf springs, and now use parabolics, but such axles and suspension are harder to buy and to design round.

If you decide to buy secondhand, wheel bearings have a hard life, and often seem minimally-specified. Taper rollers are usually wrongly adjusted, inadequately maintained, and can fail spectacularly and rapidly. Brake parts are ludicrously expensive, even simple bits like shoes. If a trailer has been neglected (most have), the hitch can be badly worn, both the coupling head and the shaft. Even folk who will sanctimoniously preach "only the finest" with car tyres seem to fit any old tyres to trailers, regardless of load rating or condition. Make sure your chosen tyre size is sensibly available - Ifor Williams are noted for using sizes like 145R10C 8ply and 185/60R12C, which you won't find at your average tyre shop. The caravan accessories section of your local free ads paper will probably have some unused wheels and high load-rating tyres, but there are many combinations or rim width, offset, and stud spacing.

Reply to
Autolycus

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5 eggs. Baz

Reply to
Baz

You could always use the back end of an old car ...

Reply to
Rob Morley

Twin axle has many advantages, but if you intend man handeling the thing, the extra tyres make it a real PITA to turn.

Rick

Reply to
Rick

Odd. I much prefered manhandling the 3500kg MAM twin axle I hired than the single axle 750kg braked trailer. It could be steered easily by pulling on the hitch. The fact that all points in contact with the ground had pneumatic tyres, made it easier to push than the single axle with the solid rubber jockey wheel with loads of friction.

Note that this would not include pushing at their maximum weights, but largely empty...

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Your design will need to take account of the restriction implied by the weight of the towing vehicle. IIRC the maximum weight of trailer and load must not exceed the weight of the car. So the heavier you make the trailer -extra wheels, brakes etc, the more you reduce the load that can be carried.

If you have a light car you may be better off with the lightest unbraked trailer design you can get.

Roger

Reply to
Roger R

Hmm. Just thinking of some of the times I've taken my heavily-laden unbraked trailer down to the dump... What's a ball-park figure for the density of rubble? (I suppose it will be very variable). I'd certainly be interested to know my laden weight on occasions; is there any clever way of measuring this short of visiting a weighing station?!

I'll be bringing mine back from France soon, following my forthcoming camping trip (provided I get the tent lights sorted, of course!!) and am naturally keen to fill any feasible space on the return journey with (liquid) local fare, but don't want to overdo things and overload it...

David

Reply to
Lobster

Check out if you have a local Indespension shop. Years ago they used to do leaflets describing several designs of trailer.

Reply to
Mike

IIRC a cube yard is ball park a ton. So dependinh on how well packed the rubble was...

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Indespension .... as well as all the suspension units, they sell all the bits, including welded up frames ... the Indespension catalogue is a must have.

Rick

Reply to
Rick Hughes

a tonne per m3

Reply to
Rick Hughes

The latter points are important ... I built a trailer, after a couple of years one the suspension units failed (constant dunking in salt water) the replacement bolted on OK ... but the wheels then rubbed against trailer ... the offset of the wheels required for new suspension units was different.

Rick

Reply to
Rick Hughes

That sounds a bit on the low side to me. I thought concrete was 2-3 tonnes per m3 so rubble should be close.

Reply to
dennis

Erm... either way: oops!

David

Reply to
Lobster

In actual fact there is no legal limit on the weight a private car can tow. See:-

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If you have a light car you may be better off with the lightest unbraked trailer

In reality that of course may well be true.

Reply to
usenet

We have a local Indespension but their web site had nothing much useful that I could see. Maybe I'll visit them.

Reply to
usenet

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