Beech-block table

I have what I believe is called a beech-block kitchen (dining) table, the surface made up of strips of wood about 3cm wide. The surface needs renovation, as the original finish (varnish presumably) is wearing off in places. I am planning to sand down and reseal it, but am not sure whether to use a clear polyurethane varnish or a drying oil like Junckers Rustic Oil which we use already on our wooden worktops. The end result there is fine but I'm worried that it will need many coats of oil on the table if I sand back to bare wood, whereas varnish would be quicker. Also, I could do without yet another surface to re-oil every few months. Are there any reasons why I should not choose varnish?

Reply to
Richard J.
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See the second sentence of your question?

Reply to
Stuart Noble

You mean the second sentence of my post/paragraph, I assume. OK, so it was varnished (presumably) by the manufacturer, so it must be OK. Is that what you mean? (If so, why not say so? I don't want to waste time solving riddles.)

Conversely, must I continue treating the worktop with Rustic Oil, or would it be possible to brush varnish over it, and if so would that be more waterproof and harder-wearing?

Reply to
Richard J.

Varnish really isn't quicker and looks like crap.

The problem is that when there is wear, the only solution is to strip it all off, sand and start again.

With Danish Oil you can build up a finish very easily and painlessly. You can sand lightly, apply a coat, leave for a day and repeat using finer grade paper each time. It's even possible to sand wet with very fine paper.

four or five coats will do and it isn't as though there needs to be huge preparation work in between. With varnish, everything has to be perfect after each coat to avoid showing the tiniest blemish.

Reply to
Andy Hall

I suspect he meant that as the original varnish needs renovation maybe you'd do better to avoid using the same stuff again.

Reply to
Rob Morley

Hardly much of a riddle. Varnish wears off because it's a film that sits

*on* the wood and is vulnerable unless it's extremely tough and your wood is sound enough to support it. What I would do is sand the whole thing back to bare wood. This isn't usually difficult because the varnish tends to powder rather than melting and sticking to the abrasive. Apply 3-4 coats of polyurethane with a rag rather than a brush. This helps drive it into the grain and prevents excessive build up on the surface. Rustins Liquid Plastic is a 2 part rock hard and crystal clear finish if you want a pale look
Reply to
Stuart Noble

Only if you follow the instructions on the tin. Apply it like an oil and it doesn't look a lot different to oil.

Reply to
Stuart Noble

LOL ! NAHAY ?

HTH,

Paul.

Reply to
zymurgy

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