Hi all,
So, Mums New World / Ascot wall mounted, low capacity, copper HE balanced flue gas boiler has been running fine for the last 30 years.
It was inserted into what was a full gravity, coal fired, cast iron panel rads CH / HW system by bringing the return back up over the kitchen and joining the return from the indirect cylinder, before going back to the boiler.
Apart from a 22mm gate valve on said new return pipe on the CH side, she only has the rad valves and the boiler stat as any form of control. She has been happy with all this.
Now, as part of a bit of a bathroom makeover (she's thinking of moving to a bungalow but not 'just yet') we replaced the big bath and equally large cylinder with a gravity thermostatic shower and smaller / modern / smaller cylinder (she bought all this bathroom stuff in a Homebase sale in 2005 but Dad was taken ill so ...).
Now, with the heating isolated and the boiler fired up from cold (and cold water in the cylinder), the boiler runs for maybe 60 seconds before tripping the (new) overtemp stat (as it did the original).
Open the heating valve and everything runs fine (even with all the rads turned off ('single pipe' system)).
Now, from the cold scenario above, if you hang onto the boiler flow and return at startup, you can feel the flow first getting hot (quickly) and then the return getting pretty hot soon after (suggesting there is a good flow round that pretty short cct (possibly
4m, not including the cylinder coil) cct).Crack open the CH valve and it takes *much* longer for the return to show the same level of heat as the flow (and by which time the boiler would have modulated etc). Left long enough, the boiler turns off (pump stays on all the time on the same timeswitch as the boiler feed) and cycles on / off thereafter, just as expected?
I've currently got the heat exchanger out and have run a hose though it (ensuring water went though both pathways) and it seems pretty clear (little backpressure from a garden hose on full). I put some kettle descaler in there for a while but it made no difference.
OOI, on all of the pipes we opened there has been little sign of any furring and when filled, run and flushed the water now runs pretty clear when drained.
The rads quickly get hot top to bottom and the HW gets pretty hot as well!
So, the only thing I can think of now is we have definitely reduced the volume of the HW cct and possibly also reduced the effective capacity of the cylinder (smaller water capacity, smaller coil and of a smaller diameter pipe). I feel the flow is ok judging by the speed the hot water gets round the boiler > pump (Grunfoss 3 speed, now on 3 and still pretty quiet) > cylinder > boiler cct, so, is it that the new cylinder simply can't consume enough energy to give the boiler stat time to respond to the temperature increase in time to stop itself overheating?
Looking at the tubular towel rail in the bathroom, it might be fairly straightforward (if not easy as such) to put the towel rail effectively in parallel with the HW cylinder (like a bypass) to both increase the water capacity of the 'HW' cct and give Mum a hot towel rail all year round (that she would like). However, what are the chances it would be enough?
Just to recap, with all the rads closed, CH on and just 2 x 1-1/4" heating pipes in cct the boiler / HW seem fine?
FWIW It never seems to kettle but I may hear some *very slight* 'sizzling just before it trips the overtemp stat (but the burners might still be on full at that time)?
Cheers, T i m