On Tuesday, May 27, 2014 7:33:52 AM UTC-5, email@example.com wrote:
ut temporarily and measures the square of the window that fits into the rou
gh opening. It measured 31 9/16 wide x 71 9/16 tall. I cant find a window l
ocally anywhere this size.
One of the panes is broken. Also, the window will not stay up when raised,
it just falls back down.
Everything in my house seem installed incorrectly. I just thought in the lo
ng term it would be better to replace it.
For example. There is no flashing at all on the window. My house has osb wa
lls without housewrap. The bare header above the window is exposed. (The os
b that covers the outside walls is somehow missing from the header area. Be
cause of this, there is a 7/16 gap at the top of the window. (The thickness
of the osb). There was insulation stuffed in there. There were also no nai
ls at all on the top flange. I could push on the window from inside the hou
se at the top and see the window move.
The wall this window is on is only 12 feet long. My thought was to put tar
paper on the wall in leu of housewrap, and install a new window with the st
ick on asphalt flashing. (I thought about installing 1/2 inch foam board as
well but not sure on that part at this point.
One thing I am worried about with another window is I took one to have a ne
w pane put in and it cost me over 100 bucks. I have found new windows for 1
One question I have is how hard would it be to get my old vinyl siding to l
ine up if the new window is slightly a different size on the outside from t
he old window?
As always I appreciate it!
On Tuesday, May 27, 2014 7:33:52 AM UTC-5, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
And before anyone says anything, if I decide to try the insulating sheets there is over 1/2 inches of room at each corner piece. Like I said it is an idea, I don't know if I am going to do it or not. I need to find a window first and go from there.
I'm confused by your comment. Are you saying that you only use new
construction windows (the ones with mounting flanges) as opposed to vinyl
replacement windows? Doesn't that mean that the siding and trim around the
exterior of the RO has to be R&R for each window?
A VRW requires tear-out to the RO (which you mentioned) and typically goes
"out" to within an 1/8" on both sides of the RO and within 1/2" of the
height, allowing the window to be tilted into the opening from the inside.
When I supplied my measurements I knew they were going to undersize the
height by 1/2”, but I also knew I didn't need that much to tilt my windows
in. I padded my height measurements a bit just so that I would get as much
window as possible. That also meant that I didn't have to raise the windows
up too much to eliminate the head expander.
The head expander is not only ugly but it's a PITA to trim around.
I guess I'm not one of the "most".
In our living room we have a large picture window with a double hung on
each side. For the double hungs we put the screen up to the top and open
the top sash. Why? The friggin' cat!
Our outdoor cat will knock on our storm door when she wants to walk through
the house for an inspection. Depending on what we're doing we don't always
hear her knocking. When that happens she (used to) jump from the ground
below the window and attached herself to the screen until we noticed her
and let her in.
By moving the screens to the top she can't reach them. She will still jump
up to the window every now and then and kind of try to land on the window
sill, which never works. I'm not sure if she is really trying to land on
the sill or if she is just trying to make enough noise to get our
BTW...we have small bells hanging from the inside handle of the patio door.
She will reach up and smack them with her paw when she wants to go out.
I never had a single hung window. Can you still tilt in and/or take out the
upper sash to clean it?
| > How often do you open the top sash? IME, most people never open it.
| I guess I'm not one of the "most".
| In our living room we have a large picture window with a double hung on
| each side. For the double hungs we put the screen up to the top and open
| the top sash.
Me, too. I have one over my bed that I leave open at
top. The breeze is better in the summer. The cool evening
air tends to "drop" in. I've also done it in the past for
security, when I've lived in 1st floor apartments.
| I never had a single hung window. Can you still tilt in and/or take out
| upper sash to clean it?
They're not unusual in budget renovations and
low-end apartments. The ones I've seen just
have a fixed top panel. One actually has to dismantle
to whole window to get it out. I'm not sure of the
reasoning. Probably it's to save on springs and allow for
a flimsier frame. (The top sash acts as a stiffener.)
On Wed, 28 May 2014 16:08:11 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
That's what I'm saying, but the trim and siding doesn't have to come
off because on good windows the mounting flange is removeable. The
window goes in from the inside and fits perfectly to the outer trim..
The window is sealed in with low expansion spray foam. Custom jam
extentions are made to fit on site and fastened to the window frames
and to the framing, and the original inside trim can usually be
salvaged and re-installed - or new inside trim can be made to fit.
Depending on the fit, you can order the windows with an integrated
"brick mould", which is easily removeable - for a very low extra
price.. Can't remember if I used them on my windows or not - I know we
got the brickmould on some of the windows when we did mine and the
I tell my supplier the size I want - not the rough opening size. That
way the fit is up to ME, not them.
And totally un-necessary for a "custom built" window.
You need to see a sample of the windows in question so you can look at
and measure the "reveal" - so you know exactly what size you need to
make the window and the external trim work - you can always shim the
window to fit the RO if you require a window just a tad smaller to
make the outer trim work.
When I replaced my upstairs windows I re-used all the internal trim,
and the outer "reveal" of the window frame fit 1/8" all around to the
existing trim on the siding - which was easily caulked so it looks
like the windows went in before the siding went on - Can't tell that
they are not the originally installed windows in the house. When I got
the price to have my kitchen and lower bathroom windows done I went
over the setup with the contractor/supplier and told them exactly how
I wanted the job done. Guy said he'd never seen it done that way, but
was really impressed with the idea, and he's done it for many other
When the neighbour had the addition put on their house I told the
contractor what windows were installed in the rest of the house, and
where to get them. He put in a non-matching window - not even the same
size - as the third window across the front of the upper floor. It
looked like HELL, and I made him tear it out, reframe it, and install
the right window in the right position. (and he had installed the new
vinyl siding between when I told him it was unacceptable and when he
ended up re-doing it - he wasn't happy) The neighbour said that's why
she had me monitoring the job - she "couldn't have done it to the
guy". Can't tell from looking at the front of the house that there
was an addition built - it all looks "original" (built bedroom, guest
suite/office and bathroom over the garage and family room)
On Wed, 28 May 2014 16:21:44 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
Nope. False economy to install a single hung. Opening the top lets
hot air out to provide good circulation in the summer too.
As for the cat - out little Tonkinese used to open the sliding screen
door to let heself out if we didn't have it securely latched or
blocked - and one day she closed it behind herself. Something in the
back yard scared her and she couldn't get back in - she climed almost
all the way up th (petprrof fiberglass) screen!!!)
6 1/2 pounds of the smartest cat I've ever seen -and CUTE!!!. She's
been gone quite a few years now, and we miss the little rascal.
I guess I'm not seeing the difference between a window with a flange or
brick molding _that you then remove _ and a replacement never had the
flange or brick mold from the start. Since they both install from the
inside, what's the difference?
Same with me, although I just simply gave them the "wrong" measurements so
that when they built the window using their standard process, I ended up
with windows sized the way I wanted them to be.
Did that. That's how I knew how much to adjust my measurements.
I, too, used the existing interior trim but I had to rip mine down a bit
since the replacement windows were deeper than my original single pane
The exterior trim is wrapped in aluminum. Since I removed the triple track
aluminum storms, I also removed all of the aluminum wrap and slid it in
towards the new windows then caulked the joints. It was a lot of work, but
it came out nice.
I mentioned everything that I did while talking to a window contractor and
he said he would have charged me a lot of labor to do everything that I
On Thu, 29 May 2014 11:35:54 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
The "insert" window, made to fit inside an existing jam, is
(generally) of totally different and lighter construction. In many
cases it doesn't even have any structural frame. And if using a brick
moulding, it is usually installed from the outside. I just checked -
neither mine nor my neighbours used a brick moulding except for my
kitchen window - and it was a custom narrow brick moulding.
Hard to remember back to when I installed mine - particularly since I
was working for a window company at that time and there were so many
different ways they were supplied for different jobs.
Dangerous to ASS u me anything when dealing with a supplier if you
are doing the install. You say EXACTLY what you want - then you, and
ONLY you are responsible for the correct fit.
That's the "jam extension" which I always count on replacing. The
"trim" mounts on the wall, covering the "crack" between the jam
extention and the plaster, and making it look pretty.
In the case of my kitchen window, there was NO trim, ()or jam
extention) because I built the cabinets out over the frame of the
window, and the new window needed to fit in tight against the
cabinets, with the glass being centered between the cabinets etc so it
still looked "right". The installer/supplier was not sure how to do
it that it would look right untill I sat down with him and explained
how I would do it if I wasn't paying him to do the job.
The aluminum wrap could have been completely removed, along with the
exterior trim the way I do it.
A proper window replacement is NEVER cheap if you are paying for it!!!
That's where we disagree. There were no dangerous assumptions made.
The manufacturer of my windows has a stated SOP for a window order: They
will make them 1/4" narrower and 1/2" shorter than the measurements given
by the customer. When you look at it from that perspective, you realize
that they don't care about your RO. They don't even care if you have a RO.
They will simply make the windows 1/4” narrower and 1/2" shorter that the
measurements you give them.
If I give them a set of measurements and let them follow their SOP, I will
get windows that are exactly the size I want because I know they will make
them 1/4" narrower and 1/2" shorter than the measurements I give them. If
they don't, I can send them back. I, and ONLY I, am responsible for the
correct fit and I didn't have to get into any conversation related to
having them do something than their SOP. I see more room for error and
miscommunication by asking/telling them to do something different than they
do thousands upon thousands of times a year.
Perhaps your manufacturer handles window orders differently. Maybe they
want exact measurements, maybe they accept various types of measurements
along with instructions e.g. "These are exact measurements" or "These are
RO measurements". In my case, I simply let them follow their SOP, knowing
that if they didn't, I could simply return the window(s).
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