What's the best way to punch a 2" hole for a drain pipe through a cinder block wall?

[Robert Green]

I had already put the much cheaper ($29):

in my cart but now I am not so sure. I need it to make one hole. I have some masonry bits but I assume they may not be for hammer drills. The unit you recommended has a bit pack with it, and a brush and the rubber cup design looks more protective of the drill. I am not sure that matters, though, since I will be drilling and my helper will be using the shopvac to catch what probably will be substantial debris. Both are made by Chicago. One's a 1" and the other's only 1/2" and one weighs 5 pounds and the other

1. The thirty dollar price difference buys me this carbide hole saw:

Decisions, decisions.

-- Bobby G.

[Robert Green]

and hit the center core.

I'm not so sure what I've got. As I recall from the rupture, these blocks were much darker, almost blue in color. The way they broke open under the basement window sill does not speak to a strong cohesion, either. They are definitely darker and more granular than the grey blocks you find at the BORG. IIRC, they are smaller than your average concrete block, but I've not had a lot of experience with them. Looks like stone flakes pressed together. When I get home, I'll take some pictures of the ruptured area and post them.

-- Bobby G.

[Robert Green]

I suspect that masonry is best attacked with "sterner stuff" - something with a carbide or diamond tip. Thanks for the suggestion, though. I've been able to find carbide tipped hole saws for not much more and I probably wouldn't have to worry about it becoming too dull to even finish the job.

A hammer drill seems to be a better proposition for drilling through masonry. Even the big 1" model is dirt cheap compared to some other options. I might just use the masonry bits I have in the drill I have to see what kind of progress I can make. The ring of small holes sounds like the best way to go and the small bits are far cheaper than hole saws.

Well, I'm afraid that will probably be the end product no matter what approach I take. Experience is gained proportional to the amount of equipment or material ruined.

-- Bobby G.

[KLS]

See why learning history is so important, kids? Thanks for this mini lesson!

[gfretwell]

I got a smaller one at Home Depot to drill a couple holes in a tile counter for a faucet. I am not sure how big they go.

[Harry K]

it to renting

oing it so as

ggee.

Having used a 3/8" and 1/2" hammer drill and concrete bits before several times and also gone the 'rent a real rotary hammer route, it will be the rotary hammer from now on. A few minutes with one of those beats long sessions with a hammer drill.

Harry K

[EXT]

As a certified old fart, I have a wealth of useless information clogging up my brain. Trivia that I rarely get to use except for the rare occasion.

[KLS]

You'll enjoy this article if you haven't read it already (it made my

75-yo father feel really good):

[hallerb]

bit to renting

doing it so as

biggee.

the 70 buck harbor freight SDS one works fine for occasional use.....

[metspitzer]

They make 2" masonry bits for hammer drills. Drill each side instead of drilling all from one side. This is what causes blowouts.

Just a reminder, if it is a 2 inch pipe, the bit needs to be at least

2.5.

[Robert Green]

Thanks for the info. As long as I know they can be had at the WorkBench I'm happy. Gonna try it with just the non-hammer 1/2" drill and a carbide bit hole saw from the Borg and escalate from there . . .

-- Bobby G.

[Robert Green]

[Robert Green]

and Harry K wrote

Decisions, decisions. So far, the use interval has been 20 odd years and I don't really need another tool to store but if it's dramatically faster, I might just rent one on a day I need some other rental tools as well.

Thanks for the input

-- Bobby G.

[Robert Green]

They make 2" masonry bits for hammer drills. Drill each side instead of drilling all from one side. This is what causes blowouts.

Just like drilling through wood like that causes splintering. Excellent advice, thanks. I have a masonry bit with a small diameter (3/8" IIRC) and an 18" long shaft that I thought I would drill through first to give me a center hole for the hole saw guide bit on each side.

Already factored in. It's 1.5" pipe.

Thanks!

-- Bobby G.

[Vlad]

Didn't rerad all the comments, but did anyone mention the moron that fired a bullet through the wall for his cable? Killed his wife with a clean shot. I wonder if the guy had any cable parts laying around?

I once pounded a 4" or 5" hole in 10" of solid concrete for a dryer vent. That took a cold chisel, 24oz hammer, and a lot of beer. I didn't know i couldn't do it....so I did it! My arms were like Jello after that.

[Robert Green]

My wife might take offense at that method.

Who knows more about making holes than Vlad the Impaler? Rotary hammer it is!

(-:

[NickySantoro]

I've only done this once. Used a star drill and small sledge. Worked fine if a bit slow, IIRC. Block did not crack. FWIW YMMV