So it's nothing that is sold for the kitchen. So what are you
talking about? What is the brand name? Where is it sold?
He's talking about plastic wrap that is used by the shipping industry to
wrap pallets and skids and boxes with. The average Joe can get wrap like
that at Staples and the like, even larger Post Offices or moving places that
selling shipping supplies. But it's sold in like 1000 foot quantities. If
you work for a company that has a shipping deptment you can get it there if
you ask your co-worker.
The stuff I use is kitchen food wrap that clings to one side of the plastic.
However I'm in Cold Canada where the cold weather can make any plastic wrap
or film unclingy so I use really good quality electrical tape to ensure the
wrap stays in place in case kids or dogs trip on my cords, etc. Usually
winter around my house the snow and ice will stay on the ground for 20- 30
days at a time, melt, then come back and stay another 30 days. There was
one winter where it stayed for 104 days straight. I'd had no fears about
water seeping in thru kitchen wrap plastic.
I don't use the tape around the plugs cause the adhesive messes things up
and sticks to stuff. It's like mucky glue.
Because I work in a warehouse for a living I can get DerbyDad's wrap for
free and I might try it next year.
I used the stretch wrap this year for my Christmas lights and we went
through all sorts of weather from snow to thaw to rain and none of the
connections had an issue. I had one connection where a 3-way adaptor
was plugged into the end of an extension cord but only 2 of the
receptables was being used. This connection was lying on top of the
bushes and got covered in snow a couple of times and also rained upon.
I think I would have known if there was an issue since my GFCI has
tripped in the past due to unprotected extension cord junctions.
For Halloween I used an extension cord that has a junction box and a
duplex receptacle on the end. I stretch-wrapped the whole mess and it
sat in the rain for days and never tripped the GFCI.
re: "I don't use the tape around the plugs cause the adhesive messes
things up and sticks to stuff. It's like mucky glue."
That's what makes the stretch wrap so convenient. It only sticks to
itself and once stretched it seals very, very well.
On Jan 9, 6:02 am, email@example.com wrote:
I would make up cables with waterproof connectors. Make the cables
long enough so the only splice is at the tank where the heaters plug
into the cords. Consider installing a permanent outlet at the tanks
feed by a buried cable. Place the connections in a weather tight box.
I have used an old bicycle inner tube cut to a length that will cover
the ends of the cords and tied with Panduit ties. If you are really in
need of a waterproof cover, you can place a rubber caulk over both ends
before tying the ends with Panduit ties.
On 1/9/2011 5:02 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Don't know if the big-boxes carry it, but any real contractor supply
house will have purpose-built gasketed plastic boxes for this purpose.
Looks sorta like a hot dog bun- put the cords in, and snap shut. Even
has strain reliefs to tuck the cords into, so you don't have to tie a
knot in the connection, which is usually why the ends come off cords.
(Googles) Here's one, at random:
But having said that, can't you just set the connection up on an old
milk crate or something? As long as I kept it out of standing water,
I've never had any problems.
Indeed; I can't imagine having such a makeshift operation to start with;
there's too much else to do to have to take the time not to mention the
inconvenience of dealing with it in inclement weather and the conditions
While were not large operation by today, feedlots have capacity here for
about 500 head in the main feeding lots and the working and holding pens
total five watering stations. They're all permanently plumbed/wired and
the heaters are thermostatically controlled instead of fixed wattage so
takes that away. Can't imagine dealing with anything else.
To get thru the immediate winter I'd follow w/ the recommendation of
picking the junctions up off the ground somebody else made on a
temporary post and switching to thermostatically-controlled heaters aka
the above link or something similar; there are many choices as well as
these (should be a stock item at the local farmers co-op or farm supply
But the current code requires GFCI in wet locations. There used
to be some exceptions but I think they're largely gone.
The GFCI does serve a purpose for livestock. Critters are really
sensitive to current leakage. There have been a lot of stories over the
years of dairy cattle not producing due to current leakage. Other
animals might not drink if there is current leakage around around water
tanks. They'll actually get a small shock while you and I wouldn't
feel a thing.
The code for livestock buildings is more stringent also now.
re: "...and gfci's don't work outside"
Actually, they work very well outside, if used for their intended
Based on what you said, these must be for inside use only:
There are outdoor rated (CSA and UL) GFCI's and there are properly rated
covers for them too.
You can also use GFCI breakers at the panel box for such a purpose however
these are costly. For example I have a 220 volt/7.5 amp swimming pool plug
that I could not find a properly rated outdoor gfci outlet for. When I
changed my panel box this summer, the Electrician said they are not
available in Ontario and I had to pay $145 for the breaker (2 pole).
On Jan 9, 5:02 am, email@example.com wrote:
For both my Halloween and Christmas decorations I wrap my cord
connections in stretch wrap like this product:
I use in it all sorts of ways to secure items, seal items, waterproof
Many things that I used to use duct tape for now get wrapped with
stretch wrap. It's cheaper and much easier/cleaner to remove.
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