A dip tube is closer to $10 or $15. I can't remember what I last spent, but
they might even be cheaper than that.
The only problem with taking out a dip tube is that you probably have to lie
the water heater down. Draining it is easy enough, once you let it cool
down. I'm surprised it's soldered in. Around here, there's always a
flexible metal connector from the valves to the nipples. If it's really
soldered and there's no other way, then you know for yourself whether you
can do it. For under $50, you can get a nice little torch with MAPP gas and
everything you need to do the job. Check with your local Home Depot or
Lowes to see if they have some weekend seminar on soldering pipes. That's
assuming that you can't add a flexible connector, which you may be able to
The labor is about the same to replace the dip tube or change the water
heater, short of actually moving it around. Once the water lines are
disconnected, the dip tube (or what's left of it) often just lifts out.
Some come attached to the nipple, and the nipple must be replaced.
Another thing is that the price seems way high, unless there's something
about the job you are not telling us.
This one is easy.. You evidentially have an 11 yr old water heater
and are considering a $500 repair to it?? If you cant figure this one
out, you needent even bother to attempt a repair yourself. Have your
wife make the decision. Its like golf. Go up to the red tee and pull
your pants down while you swing.
On 1/7/2005 12:00 PM US(ET), JerseyMike took fingers to keys, and typed
They are all probably of the same quality when made by a well known mfg.
My OA Smith, 40 gal., propane fired, water heater is just over 5 years
old and still working. The previous one was 9 years old when I replaced
it, but I don't remember the brand. I don't know anything about BW.
$500? I suggest you read a little here:
They will explain how to fix your own heater and make it last.
To install a dip tube you need a pipe wrench to unscrew the inlet nipple and
a new dip tube. No soldering required. You could do this yourself in about
an hour, and the dip tube should be cheap.
If you unscrew the screens on your faucets all you need do is turn on the
water and any crud will blow right out. Clean the screen and replace. If
they are calcified, soak overnight in vinegar.
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
$500.00 !!!!!! FOR WHAT?
I have a A.O. Smith, the diptube was replaced years ago. Since it was
part of the class action, the cost was zero. Total time in my home could
not have been more than 30 minutes including BS time. He did replace the
tube and flush the tank. I took care of the rest of the pipes, just remove
the strainer and run the hot on full for a few seconds.
BTW I am not sure I would pay even $100 for an 11 year old heater. most
make it about 15 years, but you local will make a big difference, the water
can make 10 years a good life or 20 may be normal.
i called around yesterday and got phone prices from 3 companies and 1
company actually sent a guy out to see what was the problem, that was the
company i got the info on about repairing the AO Smith. the 5 other
companies i called never returned my phone call as of this time so i guess
i'm going w/ the company that sent a guy out. all the prices are w/in $75.00
of each other for a new install.
Wooeee! You need to move out of Beverly Hills to a cheaper
Seriously, $500 for 6-8 years is a little steep. I got my
Bradford White as part of a package deal and the cost was
under $500 including installation.
Just got an add from Lowes and 40 gallon natural gas heaters
(Flame lock, Whirlpool)are priced thus:
6 yr warranty $228
9 yr warranty $298
12 yr warranty $348
If I were you, I would get the 6 yr warranty and have them
install it (about $200) for a cost of less than $450.
Either that or get some kid on a wrench while you supervise
to replace the t/p valve, replace the dip tube, and flush
the tank. Forget flushing the hot water lines unless there
is an obvious problem and flush only the problem line(s).
Try to flush by fully opening the hot tap and partly closing
and opening the supply valve several times. Make sure the
problem isn't crud that accumulates at the faucet screen.
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