Probably not these days, but rubber cement used to have some solvents which could be flammable and toxic. Please read the label, and consider a LOT of ventilation while it is being applied. Also no lighting sparklers or fireworks during use of flammables.
- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .
This sounds like a half-assed plan! "Oilboard" withstands rain? Fine, but wheat paste does not. For cutting sheets of paper, a roller cutter from fabric store (or a plain ol' utility knife) and straight-edge should work.
Rubber cement is an idiotic idea!
Sounds like a tip from someone who has never used rubber cement.
Spray varnish or adhesive would probably be the best choice.
You gonna' be on CNN?
OK, I now know what oilboard is. I would still be using a foam roller to apply paste to the wall.
The question now becomes, how much tack does the paste have? If the oilboard is just slapped up there and positioned, will it hold the position without sliding down? Will it conform - or need to conform - to the irregular surface of (presumably) sheathing grade ply? You might need to add some staples and you might need to squeegee it down a bit. A piece of
1x2 could do that.
Further thinking results in THE PLAN...
- OR -
Squeegee paper sheets to oil board before oilboard is fastened to fence.
As to the atachment, if it's fairly short term, you might get better results with Arrow staple tacker and T-50 staples. Quick and easy. You can get different lengths of staples.
If you are limited to screws, I suggest hex head pointy screws, like the ones heating and AC guys use. We used to call em Malco (brand) zip screws. They have a six sided head, and can be driven using a drill, and quarter inch hex tip. Don't buy the Stanley hex tips from HD, they round out promptly and are useless. Try to get good Malco. These pointy tip screws go in well, and the hex heads and drill tips give a good grip. Unlike slotted or phillips. You can get magnetic insert drill tips, which are excellent. I'll dig up a URL for you, if desired.
- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .
Zip screws can also be removed with a drill and 1/4 inch nut setter tip. If 110 VAC power is availble, a 3/8 VSR drill does a good job.
Or, cordless drills and someone to take batteries to and from a power source.
Can be turned by hand, but that's a bit like work.
- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .
We have a lot of cordless drills. Pretty much everyone has one these days. With really short screws it won't take much energy to drill them in.
We are about to post to our list to see who all will show up. I presume many will. The weather is now forecast to be lovely. And there is no rogueness in the action to scare some people away.
Don.
Foam roller. I hadn't thought of that,
The oilboard can't be pasted to the plywood. After 10 days all has to be removed, leaving no trace. Yes, it is low grade plywood. It has been painted regulation hunter green. And is only a month or two old.
Don.
If we didn't have 2200 sq feet, or if we had a warehouse to setup in, this could be a good idea.
I though of this. Problem is the sheets are 20" wide and the oilboard 24" wide.
To remove we are planning to use a razor knife to cut the oilboard at every sheet break. Then we can save all the sheets. Yes, that will leave score marks in the plywood. But it shouldn't be too noticeable. And as noted before, the sidewalk is behind the construction fence and on top of Jersey barriers, so people wan't be getting too close. At least on the avenue. We have so many linear feet this will also be on the side streets. And we have to jump over every sign and opening.
Don.
What are Jersey barriers????
They are under the plywood construction fence, as the fence is right at the edge of a traffic lane. We will have to block off one lane of traffic to place the rolling scaffolds. The site manager will be present, and presumably some workers get the scaffolds to the site.
Across the avenue construction is further along. Scaffolds will probbaly come from there. The fence we were given surrounds a hole. Which they are probably still digging.
Don.
So what's the problem? Excess glue on the oilboard wouldn't hurt anything.
I've never put oilboard on a fence, but I have temporarily secured roofing felt. Some use staples or nails. I like bricks.
All I need to do is secure strategic spots on the edges to keep wind from getting under it and lifting it. Rubber cement would be dandy if it would stick to roofing felt. Just a few dabs.
Rubber cement sounds dandy for securing oilboard to painted plywood. Just a few dabs along the edges and slap it up. Remove it undamaged with a spatula.
I checked the hazards of Elmer's Wrinkle Free Rubber cement. It contains a little isopropyl alcohol and a lot of heptane. It's flammable. Breathing a lot can cause drowsiness and nausea, but it's temporary. It shouldn't be a problem outdoors.
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