Well I'm not sure what else I could have blown. This is the only
visible fuse I see.. I guess I could have popped a transformer, in
that case I'll need my technician (which hopefully comes out monday) to
Me neither. It's outrageous. 4.30 instead of 30 or 40 cents.
There's probably a way to take apart the bad one and use a regular
glass or ceramic fuse. I'm sure they tried to make that hard, but...
This is why I save things like the caps from fuse holders when I throw
To answer a later post, it's not that there are more places for fuses.
It's that if the fuse blew, there was likely a reason that it did.
Before one blows too many fuses, it's probably better to open the case
and solder in a tradional fuse holder that takes cheap fuses. It can
use it's wires to go outside of the case. I also collect circuit
breakers from tv's that used to use them, and they sell them now too,
for when fixing blows the circuit over and over again.
Those fuses were a ripoff from Trane-- about $4.00, and I have never
seen them available anywhere but a Trane parts dist. A few years ago
they finally quit using them and went to the flat car type that are
about 50 cents. Also, can't see the stat from here, but the white wire
should probably go on W2, if there is one on the stat, rather than W1. I
had a call several years ago where a customer had installed a
programmable stat on a Trane HP himself during the winter and hooked
white to W!. I bet he was real pleased with himself at how much warmer
air it put out, but was probably baffled why his electric bill went up
instead of down. Anyway, first warm day, the A/C was running, but
blowing out air about room temp. The heat strips were running any time
the comp. was. Hooking the white to W2 fixed it.
Thanks for the info. The stat has a W and a W2. However W and Y are
jumpered for my particular setup. It's blowing colder than room temp
air for certain, but I'll keep it in mind if I run into any problems.
I was using the OHMS function to find if the fuse was blown. Since it
wasn't reading 0.00, rather "OL" it was. The continuity test also
didn't beep (where as the new fuse obviously does).
I was using the multi-meter exactly how it should have been used.
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