I have 5 ft tomato cages but the plants will probably reach 7 ft and
are now falling down. Should the plants be pruned, will this encourage
new low growth or limit it, or do I do what I have done in the past,
sink in a 8ft 1x2 and tie them up. I googled but this I could not find
anything. The best cages I used to have were wire mesh for concrete
and rebar but you need a big place to store them.
If I wanted to grow really tall tomatoes- first thing I'd do is move
to Alaska-- then I'd plant any of the indeterminate varieties. . .
feed and water regularly. . . buy a 25' step ladder to pick them.
You can grow little 20 footers even in the lower 48-
Sometimes you need to do that, or you will have so many growing points that
they won't mature before frost, or you will end up with much smaller
vegetables/fruit. Which is it for a tomato, veg or fruit? Anyway, that's
what I've learned from years of tomato growing.
Love dem tasty garden tomatos. You could take some people and blindfold
them and give them a piece of store bought tomatos, and some of them
wouldn't be able to tell you what it was, they are so tasteless. And even
visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
All planning and construction of tomato cages should take place before the
plants are planted. After that, it's like trying to control Audrie in The
Little Shop Of Horrors. So what if you have to store them year to year?
Sheets of reinforcing wire don't take much space. That concrete reinforcing
wire is great stuff, and if you make it on posts, you can access both sides.
Of course, it depends on the variety of tomatos you plant, some vining, and
some turning into bushes. It all depends.
visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
I've never seen a store-bought tomato cage that was worth a damn. Next year,
make these cylindrical ones out of normal fence wire. These are 5' high.
They've withstood huge winds without a problem. Any negative aspects to
these cages are imaginary. You'll want to cut some arm-size holes for
harvesting, and one near ground level for weeding, although not many weeds
grow once the tomato plant shades the ground underneath.
20 minutes later:
I usually prune off most of the tops, unless I don't, in which case I regret
it and do it later than I should.
On Fri, 16 Jul 2010 14:57:26 -0400, "JoeSpareBedroom"
There are some out there- Gardeners.com has some for $12 that look
They stack-- and fold flat to store. But I'd need to spend a few
hundred $$ to use them.
If you make them out of reinforcing wire you'll have heavy duty cages
with 6" square holes & you'll eliminate the need for stakes. I cut
mine 6' long- so I end up with a 5' tall cylinder just under 2' in
diameter. I cut the bottom horizontal wire so I have 10 6" spikes
that hold it in place.
Mine take a bit longer to fill out.<g>
The only tomatoes that get taller than 4 1/2 feet in my garden are the
Sweet 100s. Their cages have a 30" extension wired on.
I second the "different diameter" scheme.
I zip tie the cylinders and if they don't nest, I just cut the ties &
expand or compress them as needed.
I only need to store 4 cylinders.
I used to use 2x4 fencing and cut away wire to give access but the
wire snip rems were always cutting me.
I bit the bullet and got some 5' Keystone Wire Poultry & Garden
The majority of the mesh is 4" x6" ...the "bottom foot" is tighter but
I use it upside down so I can reach over the top to harvest.
The 4x6 opening allow me to reach through at any point to harvest even
the largest tomatoes.
Of course the wire comes in 165' roll, (30 + cages) :(
but I sell them for cost or give them away.
Not getting a couple nicks every time I harvest is worth it.
Please bottom post like a normal person instead of someone who desperately
needs to be different, and for no good reason.
Onward: If the area inside the fence is crowded with things that make the
deer nervous about a landing (or launching) place, the fence will work. When
my fenced area had none of these things, the deer entered every night. As
soon as I added tomato cages, very tall bean poles, cold frame and other
annoyances, the intrusions ceased completely. This has worked for 6 years so
I planted my tomats along my privacy fence. I use cup hooks and the
rails with bailing wire strung from them and rubber tubing to act as a
cushion so the wires don't cut through the vines. Gerry Baker always
recommended steal stakes with nylon stockings used as ties. He said
that there was some sort of electrical reaction... I can't remember
the whole explanation. I know they grow tall but they may anyway.
Pruning: I pinch off the suckers that grow at the branch nodes and
some of the flower bunches in the probably mistaken belief that I'll
get bigger tomats. Usually cut off the lower branches below 6 or 8
inches after the plants get going.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.