When I did a search, the results were all way too big, like these:
The opening in the housing is just barely larger than the cord and had
no fitting whatsoever right now. That's why I was thinking rubber
tubing that I could squeeze into the opening.
Yeah, I know. I never know how much information to include. I suppose
I could have uploaded a photo and saved 1,000 words. ;-)
I just heard from Heyco that the strain relief bushings shipped today.
Smarty posted a link to something that was probably the original type
strain relief. The part snaps into a squared off hole that usually
rounded at the top and bottom. The flat lamp cord lays in it and the
retainer pushes the cable down into the housing which then snaps into
the hole. It's easily done with slip joint pliers. You may find the
strain reliefs in the parts drawers in the electrical aisle at Home
Depot or in plastic bags hanging with other small electrical parts
Automotive stores offer a wide range of rubber plugs and grommets that
may be useful. When I need one I tend to be more interested in finding
a plug that will fit because I can always make a hole in it. Use
these with the Underwriter's knot
A strain relief is also suppose to reduce the amount of travel the
bends at any point. Some "strain reliefs" do NOT do this.
I often use multiple heat shrinking on cords. Using a piece of tubing
is also good.
I use a Tywrap to secure, and often use hot melt glue to
So rather than tell people this idea won't fit or that idea
won't work because you don't know how to work with
that kind of material -- why not post some pictures of
the appliance in question...
At least one showing the cord where it exits the outside
of the case and if you wanted SUPER advice, probably
one of the inside of that point of the machine as well
so that people can actually give you specific gizmos
you could use to solve your problem...
Yup. I should have done that. I thought this was a simple question, so
I didn't bother. Also, the last time I posted a photo, I used a
photo-sharing site and a couple of people complained that the link
caused problems for their browser.
Anyway, I think I have a solution. Thanks.
It's not that it pulls through the hole. I didn't make that clear. The
copper wire inside the code eventually breaks from the bending back
and forth just beyond the housing.
I think I've found a solution from Heyco.com.
re: "The copper wire inside the code eventually breaks from the
bending back and forth just beyond the housing. "
I'll assume you meant inside the "cord" not "code".
Tells us how that causes a short. Broken wires usually cause an open.
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