Straight and level outlet boxes

Where the mounting screws go through a plug or switch, the hole is oblong instead of being the same size as the screw, so there is a little adjustment there.Unless your boxes are way off, it should be enough to get the device straight. Good luck Larry

Shim or bend the box ( if its metal) a little bit to get it straight. Note that it doesn't need to be perfect, just close, since the cover plate will sit on the wall, not the box, and any little error won't be noticeable.

Is there a better type of outlet box to use? The ones that I picked out were relatively thin flange type boxes from Lowe's. I noticed with them that the flange tended to warp as the box was installed, pulling the box outward and making everything sit c*ck-eyed. I tried using a heavier side mount box and that did seem to help a great deal, but I wondered if there isn't an all-round best box to use.

I didn't look at the metal ones, not wanting to fool with a grounding lead for every outlet. Trivial I know, but when you're just starting out every extra step seems like a herculean task.

Bend the mounting brackets to get the box in-plane, and just don't quite butt it up against the studwall to get it level. If the studs are too twisted for that to work, you're going to have a fun time getting the sheetrock on.

Snap a level chalk line across the wall and set all the boxes to the line. Use the boxes that attach to the face of the stud, not the side. Then you can align them before you screw them down. These come with a

They don't have to be exactly straight and level. Nailed directly to a stud should be good enough. The outlets or switches are held by two screws so you can move them around quite a bit, the covers are held by one screw so they will be straight with the outlets or switches. If you need more adjustment than that, maybe you need better studs or you are doing something really wrong.

The only problem most people have is getting the box at the correct depth compared to the surface f the wall, but that isn't hard if you have measured correctly and made a simple jig.

So long as the box doesn't stick beyond the dry wall the "plaster ears" will cover you. That's what they are for.

Mostly, the boxes are set flush with the front of the wall stud. The plaster ears keep the devices flush with the dry wall.

If it ends up being more than 1/4" behind the face of the drywall or flush on paneling an inspector will make you put a ring on it ... if he is doing his job.

If it is a combustible wall covering they want it flush or protruding

They should be mounted 1/2" out from the stud for drywall. The less space between the yoke and the box ears the better. Otherwise the "ears" will bend over time and the device will become loose, breaking the cover. Some inspectors will require washers to make up this gap, just for that reason.

Okay, I think I can do that. That right there just pinpointed my problem, I was insetting the ears on the outlet into the drywall rather than using them for mounting surfaces.

Thanks.

Well, often they don't "do their job."

I can't say you are wrong because you are right.

BUT the reality of the situation is that it's just as likely that the nails holding the box to the stud will get loose as the "ears" bending.

It's quite easy to replace the "ears" device. I don't have that much "field" experience but the ears just don't fail that often.