stop water from condensing on gas pipe?

A few days ago, I noticed that there is some water dripping from the gas pipe at the place the pipe entering our basement.

Then I found out that the pipe entrance hole is not sealed (we bought this house just a year a ago). So I guess the water was because the pipe is cold enough to cause the more humid air in the basement to condense.

I tried sealing up the hole but it doesn't help.

My question:

1) Why sealing it up doesn't help. Basement is around 57F. Am I missing something? 2) How do I solve the problem? Is there some kind of material I put on to at least not let the pipe corrode. I think the pipe is black iron.
Reply to
hmmhmm
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The pipe is still at a lower temperature than the dew point. To resolve the problem you need to raise the lower the dew point and/or raise the temperature of the pipe.

Additional air circulation may resolve the problem by raising the temperature of the pipe.

Adding a closed cell insulation around the pipe, keeping it sealed on the outside could also help. You may only need a few feet, maybe more.

Reply to
Joseph Meehan

Because you are using gas, gas that you are using come from outside which is cold flowing through the line bringing cold temperature with it. Perhaps if you rap the line outside with electrical heater one that is use on gutters it may help you, rap up and insulate

Good luck from Dido

Reply to
Dido

57 degrees seems quite cold for this early in the season unless you are living in Canada. Why is the basement so cold?

Yesm the pipe should be black iron. Gas coming in should be near ground temperature and thsi depends on how deep the pipe is and how cold your weather has been and for how long. Closed-cell foam should do a good job and three is fiberglass wrap available. I would go closed-cell to keep the moisture out. Maked sure you either glue or tape the joints.

Reply to
Mike Dobony

"dewpoint" Just hearing this word again makes me want to roll on the floor laughing. It brings back a story of when I once challenged a self proffessed "great Tech" during a break of a new product training meeting to explain dewpoint to me.

It all started when he said he always charges to a sweat back. I said that depends on the RH and more particularly dewpoint. I asked if he knew what dewpoint was and thought about it for a few secs and said.............

wait for it............

"It"s about 58psi for R22......"

Enough said. I just went back to trying to eat my club sandwich trying not to choke on it laughing. Sad part of it is he probable earns more dough than me :(

Cheers Oztech

Reply to
Oztech

As has been posted already, the surface of the pipe is colder than the dew point of the air in the basement. You can:

1) lower the dew point of the basement by either running a dehumidifier in the basement or stopping moisture from getting into the air from whatever souce of moisture there is in the basement.

2) Raise the surface temperature of the pipe.

3) Heat the basement, which will raise the temperature of the pipe indirectly.

4) Insulate the pipe.

Hope this helps.

Stretch

Reply to
Stretch

Or you can say "f*ck it" and not worry about little things like this...

Reply to
Oscar_Lives

Thanks for your help.

I have a couple of more questions:

1) I used Silicone to seal the pipe entrance. Is it okay? It won't react with iron, right?

2) Say I solve the problem by using one of your suggestion, should I do something to the rust (there is some but not a lot) on the pipe. Will the rust expand without condensed water?

Reply to
hmmhmm

You need a new furnace ASAP

Reply to
B-Hate-Me

Can you explain a little bit why?

Reply to
hmmhmm

Ignore him. He's yanking your chain -- probably thinks he's funny.

Reply to
CJT

Sure, I'd be glad to.

1) The condensation is due to high humidity in the basement.

2) High humidity can lead to heat exchanger deterioration

3) When the heat exchanger deterioration becomes significant it can lead to many dangerous situations...Here's a few:

A) Flame roll-out potentially leading to a fire b) Carbon monoxide build up to toxic levels

Note: Both of these can be life-threatening

I have seen some people advise you to ignore me.

This is your choice.

Just ask these so-called heating contractors if they will put in writing that they accept all responsibility for any hazardous conditions that may arise from you *not* changing your furnace ASAP

Public safety isn't a f****ng game. Your life, and those of the ones you love should come first.

Go ahead...Ask him to put it in writing.

See what the pussy says.

Reply to
B-Hate-Me

posted for all of us... I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.=20

Yes!

Magnets If they don't don't work goto the next step MagnetBooster=AE

--=20 My boss said I was dumb and apathetic. I said I don't know and I don't care...

Tekkie

Reply to
Tekkie®

posted for all of us... I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.=20

On second thought since you are getting water from a gas pipe do your utili= ties=20 know this? Do you get gas from water? Go to the penultimate step and get = a=20 GasBooster=AE for the water pipe and WaterBooster=AE for the gas pipe. Pre= tty soon=20 your meters will be spinning backwards and the utilities WILL investigate a= nd=20 you will be made to get a Ready KillowattBooster=AE. Are these pipes level?= They=20 should be tilted up slightly. If they aren't get a BFH and make adjustment= s. =20 Ignore the hissing; that's the peanut gallery! Get back to us we are waiti= ng.

--=20 My boss said I was dumb and apathetic. I said I don't know and I don't care...

Tekkie

Reply to
Tekkie®

The humidity levels in the basement air are such that the gas pipe (with cold gas coming in after running through the cold ground outside) is below the dew point temperature of the air in the basement. Hence the moisture will condense on the gas line. Just because the gas pipe is cold, does not mean the furnace heat exchanger is cold too! If the ground outside is cold, most likely the air outside has been cold a long time. That means the furnace is running a fair amount. Therefore the heat exchanger is HOT or warm all the time. It will not cool below the dew point all winter. Think about it.

Stretch

Reply to
Stretch

It might, if there is a backdraft. Think about it.

Reply to
Oscar_Lives

It might, if there is a backdraft. Think about it.

Clutching at straws are we? Will it get cold long enough to rot out the heat exchanger? And how will the new furnace fix that. It will do the same thing. Also we don't know if this is a natural draft furnace or power vent furnace. The Supposing is getting very thick here.

Most likely the furnace is firing a lot and the heat exchanger is hot most of the time which will prevent rusting.

Honestly, is Nick here posing as Oscar??

Stretch

Reply to
sixfoot7

Check at the hardware store for foam wrap. Goes around the pipe, and insulates it. Home Depot has it, both in rigid style, and also a bit softer style.

Also worth doing something about the cellar humidity. Dehumdifier, maybe? Or some ventilation to the outdoors.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

So, guess he didn't know. Thanks for the smile.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

No it will not react Good luck from Dido

Reply to
Dido

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