I bought a ceiling fan and light fixture for my bedroom and it has a single
candelabra fixture allowing a 60 watt incandescent. I had been planning to
put a higher equivalent fluorescent bulb in before the laws changed all the
fixtures to candelabra bases, so now I'm having trouble finding such a
bulb. Are any bulbs available that go above 15 watt (60 watt equivalent) in
Here's the fan I've got:
Ikea sells compact fluorescent lamps with
edison, medium and candelabra bases.
Or you could cheat and use a candelabra to Edison adapter.
Or a candelabra to medium adapter, if you want to use expensive bulbs :-)
Unfortunately, I don't think so.
I recently purchased some CFLs with candelabra bases from
bulbs.com , who seem to have the best selection I've been able to
find (at least for mail / web order), and the best they have is
14 watt (claimed 60 watt equivalent). I'm using them in a
bathroom fixture that had a row of 40 watt incandescents, so I'm
getting more light, but I don't think that will help you.
I have a ceiling fan in the kitchen that used a single 60 watt
incandecent in a globular glass enclosure. It had a standard
base, so I tried a CFL in it: but there was only one that was
small enough to fit inside the glass enclosure. As I recall, it
was 30 watts (real), and it helped, but it had a short life: I
don't think it was made to run enclosed, and possibly not base
up. As a temporary measure I tried another CFL without the glass
enclosure, but it was ugly and it also was specifically labeled
not for base up operation. In my case, the only long-term
solution was to remove the part of the fixture that held the lamp
and replace it with a new enclosure that uses two circline
flourescents. This gives me a lot more light (and instant on),
and it's "flatter" so there is more head room, but this might not
be the solution for you.
I went to several stores, and you can get a variety of
lighting kits for ceiling fans, but none of them have flourescent
lamps. The industry is really very far behind for these
fixtures. If you want something, you'll probably have to put
something together yourself. I would have used something with a
2D lamp if I could have found one, but the circline (originally
intended as direct mounts to the ceiling or wall) worked out
well enough for me. Fortunately, I didn't need anything with an
ornate style of enclosure.
At bulbs.com I found this model:
10714C (Candelabra Base)
60 Watt Incandescent Equivalent, 14 Watt, 120 Volt Torpedo CFL Bulb
Ordering Code 10714C (Candelabra Base)
Product Number TEC10714C
Energy Used 14 Watts
Bulb Shape Torpedo
Base Candelabra (E12)
Diameter (in) 2.100
Length (in) 5.400
Average Rated Life (hr) 8,000
Light Output 720 Lumens
Finish Warm White
Color Temperature (Kelvin)
The usual white LED is a blue one that a yellowish-glowing phosphor is
added to. The phosphor absorbs some of the blue light and converts it to
yellowish light. You end up with a mixture of yellowish light and blue
light that adds up to white.
The difference in life expectancy is because the phosphor degrades.
- Don Klipstein ( email@example.com)
firstname.lastname@example.org (Don Klipstein) wrote in
Why not use 3 elements (RGB) with appropriate weights to get a better
"white"? Is it possible to get all 3 colors on the same chip? (One still
might need 4 leads to use separate resistors to trim the contributions from
each color. Or the resistors could be fabricated on the same die.)
On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 16:57:01 -0600, Kenneth Porter
Maybe 3 leads, considering that some 3-color LEDs do it with just 2
(polarity switching). I have some holiday lights that do that. These
"color changing" lights have both yellow and blue LEDs in one 2-wire
package. Turning on both produces white.
You can't have a real WHITE LED, since white isn't a single frequency
like red, yellow, orange, green, or blue.
A white LED is actually a blue LED, with a yellow phosphor. The
combination of blue and yellow looks white. The phosphor may be
responsible for the lower life expectancy. I don't know why.
BTW, I have some "color changing" holiday lights. These have blue and
yellow LEDS (they have only 2 wires to each LED, so must be connected
in reverse-polarity like the red/green ones). When both are lit (AC)
you get white.
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