A low volume toilet installed about five years ago now takes on the
order of 15 minutes or more to refill. I didn't notice it until recently as
I don't usually use that particular toilet in my house.
I have made sure the feed line valve is full open. There is nothing
visually wrong that I can find except that the water goes into the tank
extremely slowly. I have no evidence that any of the line is clogged but I
have not dismantled any lines either Water to the shower and sinks in the
same bathroom run just fine.
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alt.home.repair - 319846 messages
On Oct 23, 8:59 pm, email@example.com wrote:
It wouldn't hurt to replace the diaphragm while you are in there, but
usually you just need to remove the top part, give it a squirt with
the supply line & reinstall.
I used to have to do that every couple of months, then I installed an
elaborate filter system before the entry to the house, & haven't had
that or even a faucet drip since.
I agree.. this sounds just like a ruptured Fluidmaster diaphragm/seal.
(The rupture will not be immediately apparent until the seal is removed,
and the center part is 'rocked' around while holding the seal up to a
Take the top off the tank, and check the top of the fill valve... make
sure it says 'Fluidmaster' on it. You might need a flashlight. (If it
isn't a Fluidmaster, your on your own...)
If it does, go get a new seal... it's Fluidmaster part number 242 and
comes on a small green & red 'blister pack' card. It should run
somewhere in the $2.00 range, and is a very common plumbing item. Any
hardware store should stock them.
Once home, find your magnifying glass, and follow the (tiny) replacement
instructions on the back of the package... it's pretty simple. (The step
3 flushing part is important, and can save you a lot of grief.)
Another 'common' failure mode of these valves is foreign particles
getting stuck in and/or embedded in the seal. The valve will not shut
off completely when this happens. The fix is to remove the top like your
going to replace the seal, clean off the seal surface... and/or pick out
any foreign material embedded in it... usually rust particles. Flush the
valve as in step 3 of the instructions and reassemble. Should it still
leak, replace the seal.
I like Fluidmaster products, they make good stuff.
Easy to install/replace, with minimal or no tools.
Fill the tank quietly and fast, then quickly shut off.
Simple to service... again with little or no tools.
Reasonably priced, have a long service life, and no threaded metal parts
to rust or corrode.
Far as the fill valves go, the seal is almost always the problem... even
then they don't fail often unless your water contains a lot of
particulate matter. When/if they do act up, the seal only takes a minute
to clean or replace.
No, I don't work for Fluidmaster...
Good Luck! Let us know how it goes.
Home Depot, new Fluidmaster fill valve, $7, done.
If the supply tube is rigid copper, also pick up a flexible plastic supply
tube in case you can't get a tight seal between the copper supply tube and
the new fill valve. Return it if you don't need it.
flexible lines, the stainless braid type can fail internally, the
inner rubber hose delaminates or comes lose and buckles under high
flow, so flow starts good then drops a LOT.
I have had this occur on my toilet line, my handheld shower, and
finally my vans front brake. in the brakes case the line started
acting like a check valve, one side would drag and wear out the pads
and overheat the rotor.........
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