Service Entrance Cable -- Repair Insulation?

Mar 21, 2015 Last reply: 5 years ago 58 Replies

Tom,

If the inner cable insulators are still in good shape, you're probably OK for the occasional contact with the cable. Still, I would be worried about someone leaning a metal ladder against the cable, or accidentally cutting the wire when scraping the walls for repainting. Sounds dumb, I know, but people do all kinds of odd things and accidents happen.

Codes are generally the bare "minimum" required for safety. That doesn't always mean it is the best way to handle it. Even though it may meet code and be common in your area, the fact your cable has deteriorated like that is a huge warning flag to me, code or not.

All things considered, conduit is cheap. I don't see any reason NOT to use it in an exposed location like that, and plenty of reasons why you should. But, enough preaching, I know it wouldn't be a simple or inexpensive task at this point to update everything.

Quick fix, remove as much of the cracking insulation as you can (to avoid puncturing any new repairs), then wrap it well with electrical tape. I know they make heat shrinkable tape, but I have no idea who carries it these days. You would also need a heat gun for that.

If I were going the quick fix route, I would pick up some conduit and cut it in half lengthwise. Then I would install it as a protective cover over your existing cable. It would provide additional physical protection, and block sunlight from further deteriorating the cable. It would block rain to some degree too, but would allow drainage at the bottom if needed.

Good luck with your project!

Anthony Watson

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I'd get a couple lengths of Cantex split conduit if it can be sourced locally at a decent price and be done with it. - or even some Tyton or equivalent split corrugated loom.

all of this leads to my questions. what the main breakers amp rating? or is it still a fuse box?

for that wire to detoriate this bad its likely time it all be replaced.

*I don't think that the older SE cable had the UV inhibitors that the new stuff does. I have seen many older SE cables that looks like yours.

I do not know of any remedy for this except to replace the cable.

It is a modern main service panel with a 100-amp main breaker, all circuit breakers (no fuses or fuse box), and modern "Romex-style" wiring (I think it is called NM cable).

Hopefully it isnt a FPE main pael?

I should have said they were working for the guy next door. I

Maybe they thought DigSafe had marked where they should dig. The odds are 50/50.

I think my chance of hitting something without dig-safe telling me where it is supposed to be are a lot poorer than 50-50.

John G posted for all of us...

+1 OP > Listen to John G

I was just skimming through here I know it's pretty old but if somebody reads this. No you can't slide that through the PVC because you can't have an uninsulated grounded conductor in conduit

Is this yet another new rule change?

Cite that violation?

The only place they talk about cables in conduit has to do with conduit fill.

After doing a little research:

If you bond both ends of the conduit to the GEC then you are OK. (See

250.64(E))

It would be better to use a non-ferrous conduit, but Metallic conduit, if used, must have the appropriate BONDING devices at both ends to prevent the possibility of an INDUCTIVE CHOKE being set up, which, as I understand, could, possibly IMPEDE the flow of FAULT current...the overload device would take longer to trip. No problem in plastic.

I guess the "belt and suspenders" solution would be insulated GEC in plastic conduit - - - - --

On Fri, 4 Jun 2021 17:32:10 +0000, Kingbub112 posted for all of us to digest...

What idea? Many posts there, what are you objecting to?

I saw a service cable with the outer jacket peeling off a few days ago. Replacement is still the way to correct this.

John G

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and not in a "stack" or conduit?????

Something else that would never be allowed up here in Canada.

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