Sagging Door (was "How difficult to "build" a Door") III

It was idiot Homey Depot: all they had was oak. Normally I'd get birch. It's about 40 mi. (round-trip) to a Rockler or similar.

That's what's nice about living in a free country: you are allowed to doubt any damned thing you please.

I dunno how to make a doweling jig. To po' me, a doweling jig is a tool thatcha buy from a store. If ya have the $.

No!

I did that this time, but freehand.

No!

Wanna loan me the $60+?

I gotta 13" press, but I dunno how to make more than a horse's ass doweling jig.

I got a certain amount. But I'm damned if I'm married to this hideous POS. Remember I toldya the top rail wouldn't come off the hinge stile? You said to proceed, so I did, and positioning the 2 married pieces (30+ lbs) to do any serious work (i.e. drilling) is ridiculously difficult. I think maybe you forgot about that "leetle deetail"?

I need to get it as good as practical and slam it back together, run it up the flagpole, see if anyone recognizes it's a door. :-)

Seriously, you wanna weigh in on the Q re the super-slow glue? I'm gonna need it!

Thx, P

"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

Reply to
Puddin' Man
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Given issues like the fact that the wood overall isn't in the best condition, I don't see the absolute need for the tight fit of the dowels. I agree it would certainly be desirable. And if it were not too difficult, I would do it. But since he's having such a hard time, I don't see the harm in having the dowels fit loosely so he can align it. With epoxy in there I would think it would be strong enough and structurally sound. I would just epoxy it and be done.

Reply to
trader4

Thickener?

Current candidate:

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P

"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

Reply to
Puddin' Man

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As you are so fond of saying:

No!

When we say "thickener" we mean a filler such as one of the West Systems fillers shown here:

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These powdery products are added to the 2 part epoxy mix to form a thicker, sometimes spreadable epoxy mix. I've mixed it as thick as peanut butter when I've needed no running or drooping.

Typically the filler and epoxy is purchased from the same manufacturer to ensure compatibility.

If you go to a real boating supply store, they will carry West Systems or something similar. They'll have resin, hardener and various fillers for various applications.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

...

Whatever... :(

I'm quite confident the door was flat when it left the factory. If you don't care, I'm certain I don't, at least any longer.

As for glues; I addressed it at some length earlier.

Bye...

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Reply to
dpb

As I've said at least twice before, fumed silica (Cabosil/Aerosil), micro balloons, talc, wood dust, etc. I use Cabosil mostly.

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Reply to
dadiOH

On 7/22/2012 8:42 AM, dadiOH wrote: ...

OK, "inquiring minds" and all that... :)

What do you do that uses such stuff regularly?

I suppose if had had somesuch thing available way_back when doing the restore work it could have been handy a few times, but I've never seemed to miss it...

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Reply to
dpb

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Wood flour works pretty good for the application at hand. Or cotton flox, or micro-balloons. Personally I like the wood flour.

Reply to
clare

I don't use it regularly, just from time to time.

I built a stitch & glue pram a few years ago, needed Cabosil to thicken epoxy for fillets and other purposes, had some left over. Since then I have used it a few times one instance being when I cut a complicated piece of molding incorrectly. Easy to put it back together so I could re-cut. There have been other times too, don't recall the details.

Epoxy is also great when you have something that is difficult to clamp since the parts only need to be stationary, not clamped.

Basically, a jug of epoxy, some Cabosil and some talc are handy things to have around. The talc makes a great grain filler...mix it with a binder such as poly or lacquer, let it dry and it will sand very easily to baby ass smooth. Less binder/more talc is good as a glazing putty for deeper areas, same thing as many automotive glazing putties at $10-$15 per tube.

Stitch & glue explanation...

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Reply to
dadiOH

-snip-

-snip-

The leftovers were the best part of my stitch and glue adventure. That & the knowledge gained in the process. The little Bolger's Nymph only saw the water a couple times before I ditched her.

And here's the style I made- [not mine]

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I don't regret the time spent building it-- but it wasn't what I

*really* needed.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Elbrecht

No "stitch and glue" here but a lot of fiberglass and West Systems epoxy and filler was used.

I'm pretty sure it won't float though. ;-)

2nd picture is my son winning the World Championship in Akron, Ohio

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There's no way I'll ever regret the time spent building - and racing - it with him.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

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