On Sat, 18 Jul 2009 16:56:28 -0400, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Bet it doesn't. Do the math and prove me wrong & I'll email you a
What kind of hardwood & why waste it on studs and flooring for a shed?
You're not an old Beechnut employee are you? An uncle worked at a
Beechnut plant in the 60's. Some raw materials he was working with
came from south America. The boxes were 1" red mahogany. Not many
boards over 4 feet long-- but some real nice 5/4x18 clear mahogany. He
had a shed full.
The hardwood was from pallets that large sheets of metal were shipped
on. A friend had cut up about 6 months worth for firewood and he
offered me about 3 weeks production worth.
Figure 4 lbs per board foot and about .9 bf/linear foot. Each 8 foot
stud weighs over 28 lb. 8 studs per side is 32 studs for 896 lbs.
Double plate and sill is another 480 lbs. so the framing for the walls
alone is over 1350 lbs. with the window and door cut out. Add plate
above and below window and lintel over the door and you are back up
over 1370. The bottom 4 feet is lined with 1" thick boards - just over
100 board feet with the opening for the door deleted for another 400
lbs. We have not got the 2X8 floor joists or the 2" thick floor
figured in yet - mostly spruce but still not light when there is 100
square feet of it. Then there is the 15 foot square top deck - again
mostly spruce 2X6, with about 120 square feet of 1" thick hardwood
floor. ( that's another 400 lbs), and the hardwood framing on the
gable ends and the 10 foot 2X4 roof rafters on 12" centers (central
ontario snow load) with 3/8" plywood sheathing and 20 year fiberglass
shingles. There are"jury struts from the floor framing up to the
rafters 3 feet in on the one side and 2 feet in on the other so the
span is reduced somewhat. The gables are sheathed with tentest and
covered with vinyl siding - and the outside is clad in hardboard
There is a 2 foot by 4 foot shelf framed in hardwood in one corner
that holds my chain-saws, hedge trimmer and other assorted equipment,
and the end acts a a rack to hold material (wood, steel, etc) as well
as a 2X3 foot (approx) 3 level shelf where I keep a few motors and
assorted parts.. The shelves and supports alone are a few hundred more
If it's not within a hundred pounds of 2 tons I'll be very surprised.
Then it's all fastened to8X8 white cedar (like railway ties) (resawn
from hydro poles) buried in a gravel filled trench as a foundation..
So you would have to lift it almost a foot before you could start
I moved our 8'x10' shed a few years ago. I originally built it behind our
old mobile home, but when we built our new house the shed would have been
right outside the front window. So it was move it or dismantle it.
In my case, the shed was built on a concrete slab. So, I bought some
long 2x4's and ran them diagonally inside at the floor to keep the
building square. I also ran a 2x4 across the door opening to keep that
secure. Then I attached some 2x4's to the studs on each end to use as a
jacking point. I unbolted the sill plates from the slab, then slowly
jacked up each end, setting it on blocks to allow jacking the other side.
When I had it high enough to clear the anchor bolts, I used a metal blade
on a reciprocating saw to cut off all the anchor bolts flush with the
slab. Then I slid a 2x6 (laid flat) under each side of the shed, and
lowered the shed back down on the 2x6 skids, and screwed the shed to the
skids. The skids were about 2' longer than the shed length, so a foot
stuck out on each end. I beveled the bottom corners of each board first
to help it run over rough ground. Then I attached a 2x4 on top of the
skids at each end on the outside of the skids.
I used "Simpson Strong Drive Screws" for all connections. They're kind of
like lag bolts, but are self tapping and easy to drive with a
drill/driver. They're also easy to remove when the job is finished.
They're available in the home centers in the area where the metal
brackets, joist hangers, post bases, and whatnot are sold.
I already had a Bobcat on site for doing some landscape work, so I
attached a chain to the bucket and at each end of the 2x4 I mounted on
the skids outside the shed. The bucket allowed me to lift the front edge
slightly, but it probably wasn't needed. Then I started pulling. I
expected a major struggle and thought the shed would probably fall apart
rather than move. But, it moved effortlessly with no sign of racking. I
pulled it about 60' to the back of our new house.
Once I unhooked the chain, I used the bobcat bucket to "nudge" the shed
back and forth and side to side until it was in exactly the position I
wanted (pushing on the skids, not the shed!).
Then, we jacked the shed up again, took off the 2x6 skids, and poured a
new slab underneath, complete with new anchor bolts. I drilled out the
sills to meet up with the new bolts, then lowered the shed back down on
the slab and bolted it in place. Finally, I removed all the bracing I had
I added a little shed roof extension on one end for firewood storage,
then new shingles and a fresh coat of paint to match the house. It looks
like it has always been there, and was a lot less work and expense than
tearing down the shed and building a new one.
You can rent a bobcat fairly cheap ($250 for the day), but a good pickup
truck would probably work just as well. A small shed really doesn't weigh
as much as you might think.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.