I've read a fair bit about re glazing old windows. Everyone, including
the instructions on the back of the DAP 33 container reccommends oil
based primer. I have plenty of latex primer and with oil based paints
being phased out in general what type of glazing compound should I use
with a latex primer?
And why does DAP reccommend oil based primer?
A good quality oil base exterior primer has a lot of oils in it. These
oils penetrated deeply into the wood fibers, providing a great base to
your top coats. Those same oils let it stay somewhat flexible for years
Water based primers are great, except they tend to lay on the surface
without penetrating too deep. Use a good long oil primer like BM's
Start, or SW's A-100 exterior oil based primer. Finish coats should be
quality 100% acrylic exterior paint. These provide the flexibility,
mildew resistance and color fastness superior to oilbased top coats.
OK, but when oil based paints are no longer with us, what do we do? is
their a glazing compund for use with latex primers?
I do have SW's A-100 latex primer and am hoping I can just use that. I
do like the effect of a good latex bringing out the grain in the wood,
that's one of the reasons I'd like to use the latex primer as well.
DAP 33's instruction sheet says to use an oil-based primer, but you can
topcoat with oil or latex. Later in the instructions it says to
"always use an oil-based paint for a professional finish." It'd be
nice if they made up their minds!
Oil-based paint may have some minor benefit from the oil soaking in and
"preserving" the wood, but I would imagine that attention to detail and
doing the job right would far outweigh the latex vs. oil question.
As another poster mentioned, Benjamin Moore's Fresh Start is good
stuff. They make latex primers as well, and I'd probably go with that.
It has extra binders (adhesives) in it and is most tenacious.
Some of us seemed to have missed that memo that they are phasing out oil
Who told you that ?
Latex washes up easier, so more people want it, so more stores offer it.
But oil based will still be around for a long time yet.
But if you prefer to use latex, feel free to use it ,....according to the
"Supply of Oil-Based Paint Thins as New Rule Takes Effect
Sale Restrictions Aim to Curb Ozone Pollution"
And all this time they've been blaming the poor cows farting, for ozone
This reminds me of the idiots who told everyone to rip out asbstos
insulation and foam in the urea formaldehide because it's safer
Fortunately not all of us live in that area.
Now if they could just get cars to run on latex...
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Oilbased finishes are not going anywhere. There are countless
applications where latex cannot replace oil. A simple rule of thumb is
that you can always put latex over oil, but not vice versa. DAP 33 is
oil based, therefore it should NOT be applied over a latex primer.
If you still have your receipt, take the 33 and exchange it for DAP's
Latex Window Glazing. Comes in a tube and applies with a caulking gun.
For best adherence, sand down to the wood before painting on the latex
Oh, and AMUN, I thought G Henslee was being too hard on you, but now
I'm thinking he's right. If you don't know the oil vs latex issues you
have no business giving advice here.
Not a reliable rule of thumb! In my experience, the only way latex will
stick well to oil, is if you thoroughly rough up the oil, then use a good,
preferably oil-based primer to assure adhesion of the latex over the prime
Told you your days were numbered here dumbass. Let's see, we can add
paint related topics to the growing list of those you haven't a clue about.
Did I leave any out ya moron? Bet you wish you could add sex with your
sons and daughters to that list...
DAP suggests oil based primer because it works better.
I have also brushed on several coats of boiled linseed oil to prime, ahead
of puttying. It fully saturates the wood, allowing the putty to take a
proper "set", and slow the drying/aging of the putty. Oil paints for this
purpose are not being phased out, and will likely be with us for a long
time. Boiled Linseed is not particularly toxic - comes from pressed
flaxseed - and is a great wood preservative when used on porous wood, under
a coat of oil finish paint, or oil based putty.
The wood preservative aspect is only important if you're not doing the
required maintenance, that is, painting on an as needed schedule. Wood
protected by any paint film in good condition will not rot. Neither
oil or latex paint will eliminate maintenance. If you're not going to
do the required maintenance, the wood windows should be replaced with
something not requiring maintenance. Considering how much work is
involved in priming, glazing and painting a wood window, and the
ongoing maintenance issues, it might be worth consideration to start
replacing windows one/few at a time.
I do agree with another poster's comment to the OP about using a latex
glazing compound if you're going with latex primer and top coat. No
compatability questions that way. I can only blame my omission on low
I agree with Roger, use boiled linseed oil to prime the muntins before
glazing with DAP 33, that's what I do. The "long oil" or "penetrating"
oil-based primers are linseed oil based, read the ingredients on the
can next time you're at the hardware store. The "fast-drying"
oil-based primers have no linseed oil, the penetrating oil-based
primers do have linseed oil.
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