We have a ranch style house build about 50 years ago. The original aluminum
windows are all single pane and are badly worn out. The last windows to
replace are three sets on the front of the house which has a brick veneer on
The sets of windows each consist of two windows joined together in the
middle by aluminum bars (inside and outside) about 2" wide. I'm betting
we'll have to have windows custom made.
With the brick I'm unsure how to replace the windows. Appears to me that I
1) Measure the window opening carefully.
2) Get windows appropriately sized.
3) Pull the old windows out.
4) Put the new ones in by fastening through the sides, top and bottom of the
windows into the framing.
Any tips on how to measure the window opening? Do I need to take enough
apart on the inside to be able to measure the framed opening?
Any tips on pulling the old windows out? I'm guessing that these were nailed
into place through flanges on the outside of the framing and then bricked
Any tips on how to seal the new windows to the brick veneer. We're in S
Texas so the house has large overhangs. Most rains never touch the windows.
Still, with heavy wind they do get wet sometimes.
Any thoughts, tips, tricks or suggestions are welcome.
We have a ranch style house build about 50 years ago. The original ceiling
insulation was fiberglass bats. The paper has all deteriorated and the
fiberglass has all compressed. Now we have about an inch of stuff between
each ceiling joist.
My plan is to blow new fiberglass in over the top of the original stuff. We
have a couple of recessed lights that I'll put some screen around. Aside
from that, it's a pretty typical S. Texas attic with heating / air vents,
wiring and galvanized water pipes.
Anything that I need to be careful about? Recommendations on how to blow it
in? Fiberglass vs. cellulose?
Make sure the soffit (sp?, not in dictionary) vents don't get blocked.
Those giant-egg-carton-looking things work pretty well, as long as there
is a dam at the end of each rafter bay to keep the loose-fill from
flowing down and filling the soffit. Check with an electrical
distributor or local inspector about what is locally acceptable to put
over the light cans. It would be a bummer to fabricate something, and
have an inspector flag it as non-code come sale time.
I've been in south TX. Even in winter, this will be hot nasty work. Just
for giggles, I'd have the guy with a truck-mounted blower come by and
give a free estimate. Up here in the frozen north, fixing the venting
and adding 1400 sq. feet x 6 inches of cellulose cost me $750, and
material to do it myself would have cost at least half that, including
renting the machine. They were in and out in two hours with their big
blower. Since I didn't have a helper available to feed the little home
center machine, or crawl in the attic while I fed it, it would have
taken me all day, or more. Yeah, it was worth the extra money to avoid a
day of misery crawling around in a shallow 5-12 attic, especially since
addition has trusses and I am far from small and limber. Wish I would
have done it as soon as I moved in- just in last 14 months, I have
probably earned back half that $750 on reduced utility bills.
We have a ranch style house build about 50 years ago. The original wall
insulation was fiberglass. I think it may have been blown or pumped into 2"
diameter holes top of each wall cavity. The insulation has all compressed at
the bottom of the cavities.
I'm thinking that about the best way to reinsulate the walls is to pull the
sheetrock off. The wife wants to retexture and repaint the walls in the
dining room, living room and two bedrooms that need insulation anyway.
Any thoughts, tips, suggestions or tricks would be appreciated.
That would be the best way, if you can live with the expense and mess in
those rooms. You could even use spray foam, and fill the stud bays
completely, like they do on TOH. Note that one or two fresh walls in
each outside room will make the interior walls look tired, so don't be
surprised if the wife decides those need to be redone as well. If
original wall insulation was loose-fill, it was probably blown from
outside through the celotex sheathing, before siding and brick went on.
I know you have brick on the front, but if rest of house is horizontal
siding, they could easily do that again. Other popular shortcut is to do
it from top of wall on the inside, and then add wide crown molding to
hide the holes.
On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 12:21:01 -0500, "Fred Mayfield"
although stucco is different than brick the installation will be very
measure inside of old windows, order new windows, pull out old
windows, caulk frame, install new windows, go inside and seal area
between wall and window with insulating foam and then cover the same
area with the strips that come with the windows. Here are some
pictures of my house (stucco). I did the windows myself and it was
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