"Quick Release" plywood panel

I have a vertical piece of plywood (about 1/3 sheet) bolted onto a wood fra= me structure. There is storage behind the panel, but to access it I need t= o remove all of the bolts before removing the panel. Slow! =20

Anyone have ideas on a faster method that would hold the panel securely in = place? Hinges won't work because of clearance issues.

One idea (not a good one) is to use U-bolts attached to the structure, with= the loop of the bolt passing through slots in the plywood. Then a wedge c= ould be inserted between the protruding loop and plywood surface to hold ev= erything in place. Simply knock the wedges out to pull the panel down. Aes= thetically not the nicest...I'd rather stick with the existing bolts.

I'm hoping there are some specialty hardware products that might do a bette= r job. Any ideas?

Reply to
dbonnell
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structure. There is storage behind the panel, but to access it I need to remove all of the bolts before removing the panel. Slow!

place? Hinges won't work because of clearance issues.

loop of the bolt passing through slots in the plywood. Then a wedge could be inserted between the protruding loop and plywood surface to hold everything in place. Simply knock the wedges out to pull the panel down. Aesthetically not the nicest...I'd rather stick with the existing bolts.

job. Any ideas?

Would those "ply clips" they use to hang hurricane panels in window frames work for you.

Reply to
gfretwell

rame structure. There is storage behind the panel, but to access it I need= to remove all of the bolts before removing the panel. Slow! =20

n place? Hinges won't work because of clearance issues.

th the loop of the bolt passing through slots in the plywood. Then a wedge= could be inserted between the protruding loop and plywood surface to hold = everything in place. Simply knock the wedges out to pull the panel down. A= esthetically not the nicest...I'd rather stick with the existing bolts.

ter job. Any ideas?

"Z" or "C" channel on one edge and bottom to set panel in and a screw to se= cure the opposite edge? There are other fasteners by the dozens for the fr= ee edge.

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

structure. There is storage behind the panel, but to access it I need to remove all of the bolts before removing the panel. Slow!

place? Hinges won't work because of clearance issues.

the loop of the bolt passing through slots in the plywood. Then a wedge could be inserted between the protruding loop and plywood surface to hold everything in place. Simply knock the wedges out to pull the panel down. Aesthetically not the nicest...I'd rather stick with the existing bolts.

job. Any ideas?

A piano hinge wouldn't work? That sounds like a perfect fit for what you described.

Reply to
George

I have a vertical piece of plywood (about 1/3 sheet) bolted onto a wood frame structure. There is storage behind the panel, but to access it I need to remove all of the bolts before removing the panel. Slow!

Anyone have ideas on a faster method that would hold the panel securely in place? Hinges won't work because of clearance issues.

One idea (not a good one) is to use U-bolts attached to the structure, with the loop of the bolt passing through slots in the plywood. Then a wedge could be inserted between the protruding loop and plywood surface to hold everything in place. Simply knock the wedges out to pull the panel down. Aesthetically not the nicest...I'd rather stick with the existing bolts.

I'm hoping there are some specialty hardware products that might do a better job. Any ideas?

*Velcro comes to mind.
Reply to
John Grabowski

secure the opposite edge? There are other fasteners by the dozens for the free edge.

Z/C channel might just work. Worst case it will eliminate 50% of the fasteners. All I need to do is find some :)

Hurricane clips aren't appropriate for the application and a hinge won't get it done because of clearance issues (panel can't swing out far enough without hitting nearby obstacles).

One other item I neglected...the panel must support bodyweight (it's part of a climbing wall). Fortunately the bottom edge of the panel will be fully supported by underlying structure.

Thanks for the suggestions!

Reply to
dbonnell

rame structure. =A0There is storage behind the panel, but to access it I ne= ed to remove all of the bolts before removing the panel. =A0Slow!

n place? =A0Hinges won't work because of clearance issues.

th the loop of the bolt passing through slots in the plywood. =A0Then a wed= ge could be inserted between the protruding loop and plywood surface to hol= d everything in place. =A0Simply knock the wedges out to pull the panel dow= n. Aesthetically not the nicest...I'd rather stick with the existing bolts.

ter job. =A0Any ideas?

I have a similar stitatuon.... a plywood panel about 30" wide x 80" high. I have it secured on the edges to to framing with about 8 or 10 square drive flat head #10 x 2" sheet metal screws.

I only need to remove it to do washing machine / dryer maint or access some washing machine plumbing...so only about once a year, max.

Depending on the "look" that is acceptable, frequency of access & the amount of time to build the system...

1) screws into wood or
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2) 1/4 turn captive fasteners & retainers 3) 1/4 turn blade style fastners 4)
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sorry cannot find the exact device I'm looking for...

cheers Bob

Reply to
DD_BobK

structure. There is storage behind the panel, but to access it I need to remove all of the bolts before removing the panel. Slow!

place? Hinges won't work because of clearance issues.

the loop of the bolt passing through slots in the plywood. Then a wedge could be inserted between the protruding loop and plywood surface to hold everything in place. Simply knock the wedges out to pull the panel down. Aesthetically not the nicest...I'd rather stick with the existing bolts.

job. Any ideas?

Maybe several magnetic catches like these:

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or
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Reply to
Retired

Galvanized deck screws. Use electric drill, and screw driver tip for inserting or removing the screws.

Since safety is an issue, use a LOT of screws.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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.

One other item I neglected...the panel must support bodyweight (it's part of a climbing wall). Fortunately the bottom edge of the panel will be fully supported by underlying structure.

Thanks for the suggestions!

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

frame structure. =A0There is storage behind the panel, but to access it I = need to remove all of the bolts before removing the panel. =A0Slow!

in place? =A0Hinges won't work because of clearance issues.

with the loop of the bolt passing through slots in the plywood. =A0Then a w= edge could be inserted between the protruding loop and plywood surface to h= old everything in place. =A0Simply knock the wedges out to pull the panel d= own. Aesthetically not the nicest...I'd rather stick with the existing bolt= s.

etter job. =A0Any ideas?

djuz (?spelling?) faseners? Look good but are a bit visible. I'm thinking of thetype hey used to use (maybe stilldo) to hold hoods on race cars closed.

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Magnets. Any hardwarestore has them. (normally used to keep doors closed).

Reply to
Sjouke Burry

  1. Touch latches...push to release

  1. Any sort of ball & socket fastener, frequently used on car trim

  2. Various knockdown furmiture fasteners.
Reply to
dadiOH

structure. There is storage behind the panel, but to access it I need to remove all of the bolts before removing the panel. Slow!

place? Hinges won't work because of clearance issues.

loop of the bolt passing through slots in the plywood. Then a wedge could be inserted between the protruding loop and plywood surface to hold everything in place. Simply knock the wedges out to pull the panel down. Aesthetically not the nicest...I'd rather stick with the existing bolts.

job. Any ideas? Some kind of 1/4 turn fastener instead of the bolts?

Reply to
clare

Put small wood blocks on the back of the panel, and matching blocks in the opening just below the ones on the panel. Put a 30 taper on the bottom of the blocks on the panel and a matching taper on the tops of the blocks in the opening. The blocks will interlock and gravity will hold it in place. (Easier to do than explain, I wish I could put up a picture here)

Reply to
Mark Storkamp

rame structure. =A0There is storage behind the panel, but to access it I ne= ed to remove all of the bolts before removing the panel. =A0Slow!

n place? =A0Hinges won't work because of clearance issues.

th the loop of the bolt passing through slots in the plywood. =A0Then a wed= ge could be inserted between the protruding loop and plywood surface to hol= d everything in place. =A0Simply knock the wedges out to pull the panel dow= n. Aesthetically not the nicest...I'd rather stick with the existing bolts.

ter job. =A0Any ideas?

1/3 sheet? About 11 sq ft?

Does it have to be plywood? Since it can be removed from the outside, it doesn't sound like access security is an issue.

What about a simple shade or some curtains?

What about some hooks at the top and slots in the panel? Lift up and out to remove, slide down and in to rehang. Velcro at the bottom if you want to "secure" it a little.

What about a home made bi-fold door that only needs half the clearance to open?

There must be some other requirements that you haven't mentioned that eliminates the thousands of possible methods of covering a 11 sq ft hole.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

structure. There is storage behind the panel, but to access it I need to remove all of the bolts before removing the panel. Slow!

place? Hinges won't work because of clearance issues.

the loop of the bolt passing through slots in the plywood. Then a wedge could be inserted between the protruding loop and plywood surface to hold everything in place. Simply knock the wedges out to pull the panel down. Aesthetically not the nicest...I'd rather stick with the existing bolts.

job. Any ideas?

No credentials as an interior designer here-- but I do wonder how "aesthetics" is an issue anyplace a vertical sheet of bolted-on yet removable plywood is the solution;-) Wifey-pie?

Just sayin'......

Reply to
Douglas C. Neidermeyer

velcro?

Reply to
Malcom "Mal" Reynolds

o secure the opposite edge? =A0There are other fasteners by the dozens for = the free edge.

asteners. =A0All I need to do is find some =A0:)

get it done because of clearance issues (panel can't swing out far enough w= ithout hitting nearby obstacles).

of a climbing wall). =A0Fortunately the bottom edge of the panel will be f= ully supported by underlying structure.

Neglected to mention that it must hold body weight? A minor detail, to be sure...

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Your suggestion is typically called a "french cleat" as shown here:

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Reply to
DerbyDad03

Bad idea to have a removable panel on a climbing wall.

Reply to
Alexander J. Honnold

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