Getting ready to have carpet installed and I want to know the proper
height to install the baseboard from the floor (Short shag or berber).
I have seen this question posted before, but I don't believe a
definitive answer was given.
The best advice the other articles gave was to ask the carpet
installer. We had the sales guy here the other day to measure up the
floor space, and I ask what height he would recommend. But he really
didn't have an answer. He pointed to the wallboard that I left up 1/2"
from the floor and stated that that would be plenty.
I thought that the industry would have a standard ?
Absolutely no standard -- the width of the baseboard could be anywhere
from ~3" to 8" or even more in older, high-ceilinged rooms.
The question to ask is how thick is the carpet and the underpad and how
much do you want to show of whatever is your baseboard. From that, pick
But, as a general rule, I always used 1/2" ply as a spacer block for
typical new construction, adjusting only for the unusual circumstance.
Why would you want to install the base trim off the floor? That would
increase the difficulty of the trim installation for no reason.
Most homes have base moulding installed on the floor (underlayment)
for all carpeted rooms. Any rooms using something other than carpet
such as hardwood, tile or sheet goods would be installed before the
base moulding. The base moulding would then be ripped to a width that
will line up with the height of the moulding in the carpeted rooms.
In a production house, base molding is frequently installed before the final
flooring (carpet, wood, tile). This lets the painters come in a spray the walls
and ceiling without having to protect the floor. You don't have to install the
base trim this way, but it means the trim has to be painted separately, and you
have to touch up all the seams.
You can install carpet flush with the base trim, but it makes stretching very
hard, means the edges have to be perfectly cut and makes the base trim look
short. Far better to use the gap under the base trim to hide the edge and allow
Ripping molding to match height? Only if the cost of labor is not a concern.
I hadn't considered the production techniques of some of todays
houses. I was talking about the way our house was built about 40
years ago. The painters did come in and paint the interior prior to
any base moulding and casing installation. All of our trim is stained
Our trim is installed directly on the subfloor for the carpeted rooms.
The carpet installers have never mentioned any additional difficulty
with our house compared to any other house.
I would think the added time to rip the trim to match the height
wouldn't be as long as one would take for a cigarette break. If it
took longer than that I would consider getting someone that knew what
they were doing.
You mean like the guy's doing it on time and materials and his next
job just got delayed? ;)
Unless there are architectural detail and alignment issues it makes
more sense to just raise all of the baseboard up 3/8", no?
BS. Base is normally raised off the floor. This makes life
better for the carpet layer and allows more of the base to show.
My age is showing now, but we used to use 3/4 back in the days of
red and black shag. With heavy padding I would imagine it would
still work just fine.
Keep the whole world singing . . .
OP is talking about the wood moulding on the base of the wall, not the
flippin' radiators, y'all. Suggest you sort 'by subject' and read the
first 2-3 posts of a thread before you comment.
I think he ment if you hold it up there will be an air gap cause the
backs of base has an air gap. And the base between nails won't be tight,
unless you space the nails every 2".Walls agen't straight at the seams
of the dry wall.
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