There are many ways to measure the volume (Cubic Feet per Minute CFM) of
CFM = Duct or grille/diffuser (free-area in square feet) X's Velocity.
Air Conditioning\'s Affordable Path to the "Human Comfort Zone Goal"
Not necessarily. The ducts begin at the plenum of the air handler
and different ducts will actually have 'higher pressure' or more
potential air flow. the ducts typically have dampers installed
which will let you 'tune' the air flow. you might restrict the flow
abit to colder rooms to permit more air flow to your warmer
room. These dampers are not to be confused withe the flow
adjustment at the registers which blow into the rooms.
Regardless, you could close some of the dampers to other rooms a
little bit, and that will put more cold air in that room.
In the long run, I also don't think it would matter if there were
rooms before your room. It's about balancing the dampers to get what
you want, within the limits that others here might put on things.
There's only one run from the AC? What about rooms on the other side
of the house?
You hand might work. Is more or less air coming out? What is the size
of the vent compared to others?
All this may help pin it down, but in the end I believe you are going to
need to have someone come out unless it is a simple matter of having a
damper partly closed when it should not be.
BTW how is it in winter??
His was a good question. Do you try to close the register in that
room during the summer. How hot is the rest of the house.
Maybe you should not adjust the dampers, or adjust them to put *less*
air, less heat in to the bedroom. Then install a fan in the duct for
the bedroom, with a convenient swtich to turn it off in the summer.
Interesting. Now why is it so hot in the winter? I suspect when that
is addressed the answer for summer will be found.
Where is all that heat coming from. What heat sources are in the room
(anything consuming power, including gas or electric) Where might heat come
into the room (skylights, windows walls floors and ceilings)?
I happened to have tested that theory this morning while I was out.
With comp on and air on, 79.4F
With comp off and air on, 76.2F
But, it never ever gets to the same 71.5-72F that the rest of the
house gets. SO something is still wrong I assume.
BTW, comp was off for 5 hrs+
That strikes me as a big difference.
It's not just air that gets hot in a house, it's the wood furniture,
the walls, the floor and ceiling, the door, the metal objects,
everything, including the computer itself, everything (although I only
listed things likely to be in a bedroom) and when the air is replaced
with cool air, the new air is warmed by all the things that were warm
but not exchanged. I think 5 hours is not enough to see the full
effect of not running the computer.
Also, do you leave your printer on all the time, even though you only
print some of the time? Laser printers have a heater, a fixer, that
stays hot all the time. It's at least 8 1/2 inches long, and hot
everywhere it matches the paper. And every printer uses some current
when it on. (I think all those with wall transformers, which is all
of them, use current even when they are off! though I don't know how
much. That's why I use one of those control boxes that is flat and
goes under the monitor. I can separately turn off my printer, my
powered speakers, my monitor, without leaving my chair, and they are
turned off completely. Even the wall transformer. I can go days
without printing anything, and my printer is off except for a few
minutes when I'm printing.
Also the UPS gets quite hot, if you have a UPS, and it uses current
all the time too. (Though I rest my foot on it and it doesn't get
*hot* until after the computer's been running a while.
AFAICT, all electricity used in a given room turns into heat. Even if
it is first used to make light or motion, unless the motion lifts
something and imparts potential energy to it, all the other energy
used is converted to heat either immediately or soon thereafter. The
light that escapes out the window heats the outside, but whatever is
reflected by the window hits something else in the room and either
warms it or in part is reflected again, and eventually it turns into
Even in an all white room with no windows, the light disappears very
soon after you turn off the switch. And if you leave the switch on,
the room doesn't get brighter and brighter for hours at a time. All
that earlier light is converted to heat, in the room. Plus all the
light that shines into the room that doesn't escape out again. The
sun is enormously hot.
The guy who owned my house before me had curtains that are blue on the
inside, and white vinyl on the outside. He liked hot weather and
thought Baltimore wasn't hot enough, so I think he got them so he
could sleep in the dark, but they also keep out the heat. The more
they are closed, the more they reflect back out most of the light that
the sun shines in. If they were dark blue on both sides, they would
absorb the light that fell on them, converting it to heat, and then
conduct the heat to the other side of the drapery, and then radiate it
into the room. You know it is radiating heat, because dark blue does
not reflect much light (or it wouldn't be *dark* blue) and so if it
didn't radiate it would get hotter and hotter and too hot to touch.
What does IHM&HSEO mean please?
Also, are you or anyone else suggesting that the heat problem in my
room is because the computer is on all the time?
Not those "see-through" paper thin curtains I have???
I think it all contributes. Maybe 50/50 or 30/33/33. I guess I'd try
the most likely or cheapest/easiest to remediate first How much the
windows matter, I can't tell from here. I do try to remember to close
my curtains on sunny days in the summer time, except 6 inches for a
breeze. When I don't, it's definitely too warm when I get to the
room. I almost never use AC.
I have friends who even with AC are planning on putting film on their
living room bay window. They can just stand there and feel all the
heat coming in.
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