(I have a Speed Queen model na-3511 washing machine).
Hot water is not entering the tub.
Cold water comes out (at full-strength) of the cold-water hose.
Hot water comes out (at full-strength) of the hot-water hose.
I just replaced the water-inlet valve and the water-temperature switch.
What else could be causing the problem and how do I fix it?
You replaced the valve, but something has to tell the valve to open. See if it is getting power when the fill cycle comes on. Visit
I assume that during the replacement you ensured that all water filter/strainers were clean. I was getting very little hot into my Kenmore and found the small strainer on the hot side (where the hose connects) was nearly completely clogged. I'd think this would have been replaced when the inlet valve was replaced, but I don't know how the valve assembly is configured on a Speed Queen.
The new water inlet valve came with 2 filters. Both are clean. (There are no filters on the tap end of the hoses).
As suggested, I switched the hoses (connecting the hot-water hose to the "cold" side of the inlet valve and the cold-water hose to the "hot" side). Now, I'm getting hot water into the washing machine but no cold water.
Any I ideas?
For what ever reason the hotside of the inlet valve is not opening. Sounds like the electronics that control the opening of that side have failed. If you have a VOM check and see if you are getting any power to solinoid on the hotside. You might start at 110V, but it could be 24 or 12 volts.
Darrell
The "no hot water" problem started after I replaced the water-inlet valve about a year ago.
In early May, I took that water-inlet valve (with the attached wires) to an appliance store. They tested the continuity of the valve and found it to be good and said the problem was elsewhere in the washing machine. I then asked them if the wires were connected correctly and they said "Yes".
Since "hot" and "cold" relate to temperatures, I concluded that the water-temperature switch might be the culprit. I then installed a new switch AND a new water-inlet value. However, still no hot water.
On Sunday morning, I got out my tool box, my ohm-volt meter and the wiring-diagram.
I tested the water inlet valve first and it checked out OK.
I then referred to the wiring diagram to see what the wires were connected to.
I then noticed that the water-inlet-valve wires were NOT connected as shown on the wiring diagram so I switched the wires and now I get hot water; cold water and warm water!!
Apparently, when I replaced the original water-inlet valve, I accidentally attached the wires wrong.
There are two other possible reasons for no-fill symptoms on a washer. Less common is a problem with the ATC (automatic temp control), which alternates hot and cold to give a more assured temp. This isn't too common of a problem, but it is possible.
And, folks, here is an up to the minute heads up for something that is showing up more and more in the field: problems with new-style metalic braded hoses that have built-in burst protectors at the faucet end of the hoses. The manufacture has put in a device to stop water flow in case of burst, but they are shutting off water in normal operation. Ok all you belt and suspender homeowners, who have 10 different systems in your wash room to save you from water on the floor, can you suffer through getting regular hoses? Metal is enough, you don't need this extra device.
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