Try to stay away from 30” ranges and cook tops if you don’t want to lim
it your options; especially if you may want to replace it in the future. Yo
u will get a better selection if you go with either a 24” or a 36”.
On Fri, 11 Oct 2013 22:50:56 -0700 (PDT), email@example.com
Dumbest thing I've heard in a while. 30" is the most popular size.
Sure, 36" is better if you have the space. 24" is rather limited as
they only have the so called "apartment" sized ranges and very small
On Saturday, October 12, 2013 7:27:40 AM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
limit your options; especially if you may want to replace it in the future.
You will get a better selection if you go with either a 24 or a 36.
30" is the major share of the installed base.
36" is what is preferred today and usually used if you
have the room, but I would guess that they still sell more 30"
24" is for the space challenged.
I changed my old 30" oven/micro combo unit a couple
years ago. There were plenty of 30" units of all
kinds available, but I quickly realized that there isn't much
difference in price between a 30" and 36". But 36"
gives you more room, looks nicer, more pro looking,
and I'm sure is better for resale value. So, I spent
some time figuring out if it was possible to get
a 36" into the existing cabinets that were designed
for 30". It was a bit of an engineering challenge
and a lot more work than just sliding in a new 30"
But I'm very happy with the result and how it looks.
You would never know it was not originally designed
for 36". I also went for double ovens instead of
the microwave/oven combo.
On Saturday, October 12, 2013 12:35:45 PM UTC-4, Ken wrote:
to limit your options; especially if you may want to replace it in the futu
re. You will get a better selection if you go with either a 24” or a 36
I'll see if I can take a pic and figure out how to host it on
one of the pic sites when I get a chance. But the pic I don't
think is going to shed much light on what I did. Also, I made
an error in posting. I went from 24" to 30", not 30" to 36"
But I think the principle is the same.
Basically what was there was a kitchen cabinet section, matching
the other cabinets with an oak finish. I guess it was 30" wide
or whatever a standard width is that will fit a 24" oven,
but not a 30" It went from floor to soffit,
a whole unit, with a drawer maybe 12" high at the bottom, then
the cutout above that for the 24" oven and microwave, and then
a cabinet with two doors that was maybe 2 ft high above the top
of the opening where the microwave ended. This cabinet also
ended the whole cabinet run, with the left side being up against
an existing wall. That was critical. They actually had a filler
strip about 2" wide or so on the left and one maybe 1" wide on
So, the basic process was to take out the cabinet, then cut off
the top piece which leaves you with the cabinet and the bottom
piece with the drawer. You know have those to work with. Next problem is
that the new double oven, top cabinet and drawer were several
inches too high. So, I took the top cabinet to a local cabinet
shop and had them shorten it for me. That cost $100. The rest
of the process was to use the old filler strips and get some
new pieces of oak to run from floor to soffit on either side
that were like 1" thick. So it's like that formed the shell of
the "new top to bottom cabinet, if you will" and the top cabinet,
drawer unit, and ovens went into it. I had to stain the side
fillers to match, but it came out excellent.
I don't know if I would have been this ambitious, except that
I previously did something similar to put in a new fridge.
There was a cabinet that was about 24" high between the soffit
and the old fridge. I took that cabinet out, took it over to
the cabinet guy and he shortened it. So, I knew that could be
done. Also, for some dumb reason, on the wall where the
fridge goes, the cabinets there were set way back from the
front of the soffit. That left the old fridge sticking out
and looking like hell. I realized that with a counter-depth
fridge, if I moved the cabinets forward so they were about
1" back from the front, the new fridge would go entirely in
with only the door itself extending past the cabinet. That
came out great and also involved doing some minor staining
of a piece of oak. So, with that experience, doing the
major surgery on the oven cabinets was less risky. But
I did measure everything 3 times, make a drawing, etc
before I cut the old cabinet apart :)
Sounds like a lot of work. The reason I asked is that I replaced a drop
in range a couple of years ago. It was 30" wide, but the depth and
length of the new one was different from the original one. I wondered
at the time if I had to remove the original drop in and install a unit
that stood on the floor just what I would have to do? Such
modifications can be more complex than first thought, that is why I asked.
Yes, modifications are often necessary. I've installed a "drop in",
(stood on the floor) and had to trim the counter at the front because
the profile of the trim is different. As far as the height goes,
that's what the leveling legs are for.
On Saturday, October 12, 2013 4:27:40 AM UTC-7, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
t your options; especially if you may want to replace it in the future. You
will get a better selection if you go with either a 24 or a 36 .
In the old days if you spilled something on the range you could open the to
p to clean it. Now you can't open the top of any residential ranges; they'r
e all sealed, and I don't mean sealed from spillage because any liquid gets
through, they're all sealed so YOU can't open them. This doesn't apply to
commercial ranges and cook tops; they can still be opened to clean but only
come in 24", 36" and 48".
On Saturday, October 12, 2013 12:05:16 PM UTC-4, Nick Peterson wrote:
Is he referring to gas ranges with sealed vs conventional
burners and how you clean them? If so, that's a subset of
the market, ie doesn't
apply to the flat electric ones, induction ones, etc.
And if the issue is he's saying you should avoid 30" because
it eliminates most or all of the commercial eqpt, that's a whole
different can of worms. Probably 99% of those buying ranges
don't buy true commercial equipment. And I can't imagine
anyone buying commercial $$$ eqpt buying a 24" range.
On Sat, 12 Oct 2013 09:36:36 -0700 (PDT), " firstname.lastname@example.org"
Most commercial ranges are not certified for residential use anyway.
They don't have the proper insulation for cabinet clearance. It "can"
be done, but not worth the hassle. Plenty of high end commercial style
ranges for serious cooks.
We have a 30" Bertazzoni, but I'd love to have a 48".
This is what we have in black
The paint is done by the same shop that does Lamborghini cars.
On Saturday, October 12, 2013 3:17:58 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
I was ready to say something along those lines myself ie
that there is probably more to it than just the standard 24, 30,
36 when you start going to real pro models. I wasn't thinking
of insulation, but more like how they blend in with cabinets,
do they have an ugly open space below, which is great for a
kitchen but maybe not so great for a house, etc.
Looks nice. I have an older 30" Jennaire electric cooktop in a
center island. If you saw my other post, I managed to get a
bigger counterdepth fridge in and go from 24" ovens to 30".
So, I was thinking
of figuring out if it was possible to get a 36" gas into
the island. But it has drawers, cabinets, etc, so it would be
another major engineering project. I looked at it a bit and
think it could probably be done, but that's as far as I got
On Saturday, October 12, 2013 9:05:16 AM UTC-7, Nick Peterson wrote:
I would greatly appreciate the make and model of any residential range or cook top that does not have a sealed top so that I can recommend it to all my clients and even buy one for myself. Thanking you in advance for such information.
On Sat, 12 Oct 2013 23:00:16 -0700 (PDT), email@example.com
I had the same reservations but SWMBO wanted the range with the sealed
burners. Never had an issue with it. Boilovers were an easy cleanup.
I wouldn't hesitate to go there again, though it could be different
with low-end ranges.
On Sunday, October 13, 2013 9:50:48 AM UTC-7, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
1. A lot of my clients are landlords that have tenants that are not as careful to not spill things.
2. Some people use their ranges more than others which leads to more possibility of spillage.
3. The range that I have in my house is forty years old and still going strong; can you say the same thing about yours?
4. What was the exact reason that you had to replace your range last time?
On Sun, 13 Oct 2013 10:10:35 -0700 (PDT), email@example.com
..and they think the tenants are going to open the top to clean under?
Ick! I can imagine some of the science experiments...
I doubt anyone uses theirs more than SWMBO. ;-)
No, the house is only six.
It was an electric contractor's special (ugly, cheap, crap). SWMBO
wanted gas ($1000 to run the gas plus the $3K for the range). The
house was three years old.
The house before that had an ugly white spiral-burner electric range.
We replaced that with a stainless glass-top range (probably should
have done gas, then, too). In fact, I've never replaced a range
because it no longer worked. Your argument is specious.
On Sun, 13 Oct 2013 10:10:35 -0700 (PDT), firstname.lastname@example.org
We have sealed burners also. Makes cleaning spills much easier as the
spill is right there and easily soaked up, wiped up
Forty year old ranges are common. Not much to go wrong with them as
long as you get a flame. We replaced ours that was a mid-priced model
when new. It was about 25 years old. The timer no longer worked
properly for anything, especially self cleaning, appearance was
getting a bit shabby looking, then the oven stopped working. Probably
fixable, but wife wanted new so we got new. Local appliance store had
a good deal on a Bertazzoni that was imported when the exchange rate
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