Yes. Otherwise the base molding will not be vertical and coves and
miters will be a b***h to prepare and look weird. That's why some
installers prefer wallboard installed vertically. The choice may come
down to prevailing labor rates for drywallers. Many opine that
horizontal installation is cheaper and in some cases it might be.
Whatever, it would be interesting to have the views of finish carpenter
subs and drywaller subs on the matter. HTH
The inside and outside corners get bead or tape so they're going to be
fine as long as the finisher does a decent job. I assume the OP is
talking about the remainder of the wall where mating trim isn't going to
be a factor.
The sheet starts to taper ~2 1/4 inches from the edge, so standard base
will cover it and the angle is not likely to be noticeable. If you found
that it was a problem, you could install thin shim stock along the
If it was important to _not_ have a tapered edge at the floor and the
ceiling height was 8' or 12', I'd consider using 54" rock for the
bottoms (ripping 6" off each sheet).
In addition to Mikes comments (good ones) I will add that there is an
additional advantage to horizontal. Most people will not notice a seem at
four foot as much as they will an eight foot seem every four feet.
Also, *much* easier to get a nice finished seam on a long horizontal run
that is at about waist high than it is on a 8 foot vertical seam where
be going from being down on your knees to being several steps up a ladder.
Depends on the type of molding to be used. Its its
a 4" colonial base, not a problem at all.
Otherwise a nice fat flat knife can apply the extra mud
needed to level it out. Its more work than necessary in
my own opinion, but to each his own.
# Fred # wrote:
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.