Pretty sure you can get to it by dropping the pan. It's really messy though if the pan doesn't have a drain plug. Lots of wires just running around exposed in there too. Could be were the damage is. This website has a lot of info and pictures you may find useful:
What happens if you just leave it unplugged?
TRhanks Leon , I shoulda researched before i asked ... it's not that big of a deal because i also want to change the filter and do an oil change on this trans . And who knows , there might be a bare wire in there causing all the problems . But I'm going to order a new solenoid anyway . I figger as long as I'm under there I might as well go ahead and change the speedo drive to the mechanical and set it up for the new 3.42 gearset I have sittin' here . And since I noticed a little bit of oil spray on the underside of the truck , the tail shaft housing will get a new bushing and seal . No sense at all in doing it halfway then doing it over .
I'll lose probably about 10% on gas mileage and I think that plug also powers the backup lights . I could care less about the lights , but this thing gets lousy enough mileage when it all works right .
When I was fooling with my own years ago... it wasn't plugged in from the factory and didn't work for the first 3000 miles or so. I figured it out when I got the service manual and looked up what that loose cable connection was for :)
The mechanics I talked with thought it might run hotter unplugged. More heat generated with the torque converter slipping when the clutch isn't engaged. That tranny was quite a new design then, a lot more is known about them nowadays...
Yes. You will need to drop the pan and "possibly" the valve body. Not a job to do on a dirty floo
nothing that is not happening now. He will still get lousy gas mileage, and the transmissionwill run hot under load and onthe highway. Only change is the radio will work - - - -
Which is why I ordered a new solenoid today . I needed to change the oil* and filter in that trans anyway , along with installing the correct drive gears for the new axle ratio (coming soon , the gearset is sittin' here right next to my desk) and replacing the tail-shaft housing bushing and seal . Whew , that was a mouthful ! But that should have everything right as far as the trans is concerned . Now the motor ... it runs strong and doesn't burn oil , and I'm waiting to see how much difference the new axle ratio makes before I decide whether to do any motor mods . *Unless I can figure out how to drain the converter , I guess this will just be a partial oil change ... still better than none at all I guess .
Try not to drop the valve body into the pan... When I was helping a friend work on his '59 Buick I was fortunate enough to realize the implications as he removed the last bolt on the valve body and scuttled out of the way. The suction held it in place for a few milliseconds.
Love that Dynaflow. It was like driving a boat. Drop the hammer on the
401 and the car would eventually leave the dock at a stately pace. The soft coil spring suspension enhanced the effect.
When I change the trans fluid I pull the cooler line and idle the engine in park with the cooler line "hosed" to the drainpan and pour new fluid in the top untill thefluid comes out clean at the bottom. Sure, it costa a few extra quarts - but it's relatively cheap. In your case I'd drain the pan and change the filter while changing the solenoid - put a few quarts of fluid in then start it and run it out through the cooler line till it's clean - should only take an extra 3 or 4 liters - and the fluid WILL be fresh. Also, if you can find a BG dealer in your area put a can of BG ATC Plus conditioner in. It's the Bee's Knees for conditioning seals and friction materials and fortifying the fluid. One of the most respected trans shops around here puts it in every rebuild, repair, or fluid change - and I used itfor a couple decades while I was in the business. (Their 44K fuel system/injector cleaner is also an excellent product)
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