I have a gas furnace in the center of my 1200 sq. ft. house (in a
closet). The furnace is around 8 years old. The furnace has some
duct work that runs into the attic (not sure what it is for) and the
majority of the ducts are below the house (in the crawl space). The
ducts under the house run to each room and connect to floor registers.
Currently there is no insulation on any of the duct work (attic or
crawl space). I've had one guy out and he said he would do it for
almost $1200... I figure I can do it myself for much less.
I had the following questions:
1) does anyone know a reliable and inexpensive company/person to do
this duct work in the King County (WA state) area?
2) What type of insulation would I want to use for the ducts
(figerglass, closed cell foam, etc)... Specifics would be very
3) where can I get the insulation (home depot, lowes, specialty
4) any good how-to out on the net
Thanks in advance,
My personal opinion is you may get a pay back if you do it yourself.
Having it done is likely to have a very long pay back.
If you had A/C as well that might help, especially with the stuff in the
attic. However with just heat in King County you will not save all that
much on heating cost.
I would suggest finding out what is in the attic, just for fun. Then
measure the shape size and length of your ducts, then visiting a heating
supply company. You should not have a problem finding on in King County.
(Louis County might be more of a problem ;-)) They can fix you up with good
quality materials and likely give you some hints to make the job easier.
To find out what the local cost to install is, get another estimate.
I do not know your climent and repay time but insulating ducts is easy
though like most insulation jobs nasty. None of the materials are
restricted. You will need a quanity of foil backed fiberglass that
will have a foil lap in one side to over lay the next strip. A
quanity of metalic foil tape and a staple gun that spreads the staples
outward. The hard part is firmly wraping stapling and taping the
insulation to the pipes. Do make sure all joints in your ducts are
well sealed and taped with metalic tape as a first step.
The stuff at home depot etc. is overly expensive and shoddy so do go
to a heating supply company for material.
On 14 Oct 2003 17:57:07 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org (Tom Baker) wrote:
I have to disagree with you here.
Advice is not good if the reader will not read it. It came across with
a rather poor attitude and likely was not accepted. If you want to teach,
which is want this is really about, you need to get the information to the
student. I doubt if the original writer read past the first line and I
don't blame him.
Even the best advice is no good if it does not get where it needs.
I have not seen your advice given in this manor, even when you strongly
We can agree to disagree...thats called life, and thankfully, we all still
Ok..point taken, but Paul prob didnt check to see if it was in AHR, or
AHVAC, and it was crossposted...AHVAC isnt a learning grounds, never
was...it was not its original intent,and he was a founder.
True, but on the other hand.....some wont listen to anyone, if its not what
they want to hear.
Oh..I have..LOL...worse even.
Tried to calm it all down as time has gone on...since about 84...get in the
sometimes year long bitch session..LOL...
roger email@example.com (roger beniot) writes:
Here in Oregon the code is 3" of foil faced fiberglass, and the joints
sealed with foil tape. I assume it would be the same in Washington.
Before you insulate, make sure all ductwork joints are sealed tightly,
then it's just a case of cut, wrap and tape. Piece and tape carefully
around duct supports. Don't forget to insulate your water pipes. The
crawl space will get a lot colder when you insulate the ductwork.
I bought mine from a lumber yard. The good stuff is godawful expensive,
and comes in big rolls about 4' wide. Your $1200 bid would have just
covered the materials at my house, but then I had a 30" return air duct
in the attic that was 60' long.
Not that I know of, but putting up insulation is not rocket science.
Just be neat and thorough, and you will do fine.
I'm not sure there is code for this in WA... When we bought the house
I asked the inspector about the un-insulated ducts and he said you can
have them insulated or not (just depends if you want to spend more on
heating costs). If anyone knows any different I'd love to know about
No worries on the water pipes I already did that job (after having to
replace two leaking joints).
Rudy brings up a good point... the crawl space does get a little damp
(a small 5' x 5' area approximately 2" deep forms after a lot of rain.
Fortunetly the low spot is not near any of the ducting.
(roger beniot) writes:
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