I just purchased an old GE Profile stove top (unused, but discontinued)
from a Kitchen & Bathroom place (cleaning house). If anyone cares,
it's model# J66RP1BG. They didn't have the manual(s) for it - go
figure - and GE doesn't have them online. Now I can't figure out how
the wiring goes because there are 2 wires that I don't know what to do
with. Internet searches have come up empty too.
Coming out of the wall I have the ground, red, black, and white which
is to be expected.
The old cook top went into a fuse box under the counter, but I think it
was wired wrong because not all the burners worked, and I would like to
do this right. The former owners of this house weren't too bright
from what I've found.
Coming out of my "new" cook top are 6 wires: white, red, black, orange,
and yellow, plus ground. Can anyone out there tell me:
1. what connects to what?
2. how should the fuses or breakers (preferred, I know) be hooked up?
I figured that each of the red, white, black, and grounds would line up
(although I don't know if there should be fuses between any of them),
but then what do I do with the orange and yellow?
Thank you for any and all assistance you can offer.
On 11 Oct 2005 18:01:01 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
Edwin's answer is good, but I'm pretty conservative. I would use an
ohmmeter before hooking anything up to see which wires are connected
to which. Part of a multimeter. You definitely should have one, and
they start at 10 or 20 dollars, which is good enough. Most sold now
are digital with auto-polarity, so with direct current, you don't have
to connect the leads right. Of course this will be Alternating
Current. They all have a range greater than 220, but check. And with
220, don't touch the metal part of live wires. They can kill you a
lot faster than 110.
I know barely anything about stoves, per se, except to ask, does this
one have a clock? Possibly theorange and yellow are for the clock??
Or maybe not. My stove doesn't work that way. It's a 220 volt stove,
of course, and it uses one of the hot leads and the ground to get
approximately 110 which it uses to run the clock. It works fine that
way, but maybe others do it differently.
Try following the wires to see where they go. Take the back off the
rear part to see, if the knobs or clock is back there. You can see
what color wires go to the clock or any other gizmo this stove has.
If they aren't orange and yellow, forget what I said above.
Make a drawing or chart of all this. After you measure everything and
note everything you can see, then you can sit down and figure it out.
If you can't figure it out completely, then follow Edwin's advice.<big
And lift the range top to look at more wires. I find it hard to
believe that the previous owners rewired the stove so that all burners
didn't work. It seems more likely that the receptablces fo those
burners lost thier springineess and didn't make contact with the the
plug each burner has. Mine was tempermental for years, and I finally
had the time to get a new receptacle (connector). That's why they
sell them, because they wear out. I haven't had this happen; but
I'm sure burners can burn out also.
Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.
From what I can see, those wires don't exist. Could they be for an
accessory like a downdraft blower? Barring exact information, I'd hook it
up as you indicate, then put a meter on the orange and yellow and see if
they are getting power. Check to see if they get power during certain
operations, lights, etc. Check with a local GE dealer and see if you can
buy a manual.
Is the wire diagram that comes with the unit still there? If yes, that
will show where the wires go to. Extra wires often powered the lights (
hot surface, ect ) on the cooktop. Is the breaker box with the unit?
Install manual says "call to order" on the GE web site.
800-626-2002 from 8 a.m. - 8 p.m. EST Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. - 5
p.m. EST Saturday, and 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. EST Sunday
Appliance Repair Aid
I greatly appreciate all the help everyone is offering. Hopefully with
some greater minds than mine, I can get this resolved. Here's a couple
of issues I've run into so far: GE answer centre has no recognition of
the model number when I tried to order a replacement manual; hooking up
the R,W,B,g as one would expect gives odd results.
As for problem 1, I'll just have to work around it. The closest I've
been able to come in doing a search on the net results in:
- (parts catalogue with an image) which would be great, except they
don't have a manual either. The image on the page might be helpful to
someone with more experience than myself in figuring it out. I would
hate to have to pull this thing apart (as suggested), but will resort
to whatever is necessary in the end. While it is old, it is an unused
cook top in excellent condition - the wall oven is my next job, but at
least it has regular leads.
Weird results from hooking up red, white, black, and ground to
- "Surface Hot" light is always on - the thing didn't have power all
night so it is cold.
- both right burners work, left ones don't
- "unit on" light only comes on with front right or rear left burners
- there is always voltage coming from the yellow (disconnected wire at
this point) to ground
- voltage shows up on the orage lead when either of the left
(non-operational) burners are selected on
I'm going to contact the people (friends) at the kitchen place again
today to see if they can offer any assistance, maybe ask one of their
installers or something. Otherwise, please keep the ideas coming. I
was really hoping to serve Buffalo steaks to the in-laws this weekend
(they would be done on the bbq of course, but I need to cook top for
the trimmings). Oh, and just in case you are wondering, during my
testing, at one point or another I have seen each burner work properly
with the surface hot and unit on lights - just never all 4 at the same
time. I have also tried looking at the manuals for the newer models,
but they only have the expected R,B,W,g leads.
FWI That model is listed, with only a diagram of the mechanical parts at <
That diagram shows a circuit breaker unit; which I suggest may normally be
part of the cooktop?
Maybe that's where those other wires 'normally' terminate? is the unit
perhaps missing that item?
That doesn't mean, in my opinion, that it cannot be installed and work
properly and safely, but proper analysis and correct electrical installation
to code would need to be made to the, ground, white, red and black supply
from the circuit breaker/fuse panel.
Ok, yes, now I feel a little stupid. To my chagrin, I opened the cook
top up. I was nervous about losing parts or whatever, not having
worked with a stovetop before (and yet, I'll pulled apart VCRs, and TVs
before, go figure). Low and behold, inside were the wiring schematics.
Sorry I didn't listen sooner guys. If anyone is wondering, here's how
ground -> ground
white -> white
black -> 20A fuse -> black
black -> 20A fuse -> yellow
red -> 20A fuse -> red
red -> 20A fuse -> orange
Thanks for your patience and your guidance. Now excuse me while I go
bash my head against a wall.
Almost perfect. The oly problem I have now is that the "Surface Hot"
light won't go out. Everything else works perfectly. I guess you
can't have it all. Unless anyone has any suggestions, I may just have
to open the top up again and see if it was my fault, or disconnect that
circuit. Except that it did work before (even though everything was
hooked up wrong). I figure I may have bumped something when I opened
it up. Any other ideas or suggestions?
Also, the site says in it's Q&A:
The surface indicator lights to say ON on my glass ceramic cooktop.
The surface temperature limiters are what monitor the surface
temperature and will shut off the surface indicator lights when the
surface temperature drops below 150 degrees.
So, are you waiting long enough for the surface to cool down?
It's almost a given nowadays to have a schematic stuck on every appliance
Open a few access panels and you may find one.
You will then know what them funny colored wires are for.
But as others have already told you trace them through to see what they are
hooked up to, and just use some common sense.
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