Hello,
I'm installing some 4' x 8' drywall on a ceiling. Is that stuff ever heavy. I'm wondering if the screws I have will be enough to hold it. Should I use some sort of adhesive? What type of screws should I use? Any other advice on how to ensure that this doesn't come crashing down one day?
Thanks Sam
Just use regular drywall screws, no adhesive needed. Also if you want you can rent a drywall lift at at Home depot or tool rental place. I rented mine for $25, it was the best money I spent. I had to hang 3 sheets of 4'X12' in my kitchen by myself.
Thanks for the reply. The heads on the screws seem to be so small. Won't the drywall just push down over them given time? How far apart should the screws be in the 2x4 they will be screwed into?
The ceilings I've seen professionally installed seem to be spaced every
12 to 18 inches. I put them every six to eight inches on the ceiling, but I like to over-do. Drywall screws are cheap.Drive the screws in until the head is below the surface of the drwyall, dimpling the paper. If you drive to far and tear the paper, put in another screw properly next to the one that tore. The paper is what provides the support.
Pay a couple of bucks extra for the paperless wallboard. It has fiberglass covering instead of paper, and it is less likely to mold.
If this is a bathroom or other damp area, use the water-resistant wallboard.
eavy.<
Standard weight of 1/2" is around 52 lbs. Not all that heavy, but very awkward.
No.
Just use regular drywall screws, no adhesive needed. Also if you want you can rent a drywall lift at at Home depot or tool rental place. I rented mine for $25, it was the best money I spent. I had to hang 3 sheets of 4'X12' in my kitchen by myself.
Ditto....Good advice...
Inch and a quarter drywall screws should be installed as follows with screw heads just barely dimpling the paper so they can be filled with mud...NOT TO DEEP or they will pop through...Use a drywall screwgun or the attachment for your cordless drill that sets them at the right depth automatically for best results....
1 on the tapered edge , 3 in the field , and 1 on the other edge...Like this.. |. . . . .|On the butt or end of the sheet they should be about 6 inches apart... Like this... |..........|
Hope this helps...Good luck with your project....If you need taping help just ask.....
Kudos to you Steve, for more great advice. But, in this case, I have to ask the question:
Are you suggesting that they use green board (or similar) in baths and the fiberglass stuff (DensArmour) elsewhere? I used DensArmour only in my bath just for it's water resistance.
JK
I was being vague about "water-resistant wallboard" because code varies. If DensArmor is OK in your area for damp areas, I'd use that. I wouldn't use it, or greenboard either, in a wet area like a shower or tub surround, even though lots of people do. I've repaired too many tiled walls with rotted wallboard behind.
I have seen greenboard with mold on it so many times that I wonder what is different about it besides the color. Thanks for the clarification.
JK
(Thank you mr google...)
The biggest shortcoming in application/installations w/ greenboard is the failure to follow the recommendations/instructions in the last paragraph above.
Depending on the brand/product, there may or may not be extra mildewcides on the paper surface; it isn't surprising if there is moisture penetration behind the surface covering that mold will form.
12 to 18 inches on a ceiling...? That's not a professional installation even if they were licensed and paid for the job.
USG's sag resistant 1/2" ceiling panels can have screws 12" on center, but standard 1/2" drywall is usually 6" to 8" on center. You're not overdoing it, you're doing it just right.
R2x4s?
What's the span?
I think 2x4s are only rated for about 4-5ft. max.
Trusses are most commonly made with 2x4 stock. The span can be quite large.
R
Don't need adhesive, just drywall screws. Use a little more than what you would on the wall. Often, walls go up after the ceiling and that provides perimeter support.
Guess I missed the part about it being a truss.
It's unclear what the construction is. You were questioning the span with 2x4s, seeming to indicate you were assuming it was a 2x4 joist, and I was pointing out that it could be a truss. Only the OP knows for sure.
The wood species, live and dead loads and deflection requirements also have a lot to do with the allowable span. With a 10 PSF live load, a
5 PSF dead load, southern pine, #2 grade 2x4s at 16" on center, and a 1/240 deflection limit the allowable span is a bit over 11 feet.Obviously that's way more information than the OP will have on hand, so there's really no point asking. When in doubt, send them to an engineer.
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