My elderly father had his air conditioning unit replaced with a new one...
Where the A/C coils mount above above the forced air furnace, the coils are
a much larger size than the furnace. So maybe the furnace is 2 ft. wide and
the coils above it are 2 ft 6 inches wide (just guessing). The gap between
the two is sealed with silver tape instead of a custom sized duct transition
and looks crappy. Coils just resting on top of the furnace with tape
covering the gap.
Other installations I have seen have the same size coils above the furnace.
Furthermore, a duct was installed above the coils which is not the correct
size for the coils and there is about a 2" difference in size. And where
this ducts meets the house duct work above, it also is a different size with
about a 1" difference is size. Again these gaps are sealed with silver tape.
In other installations I have seen, they have a duct made which is the
correct size to transition for the top of the coils to the house duct work.
Basically this is the worst looking A/C install I have ever seen. But my dad
says it works OK, keeps him cool. So is this type of work common by HVAC
installers? To use whatever duct they have on hand and use tape to seal the
It's common enough for me not to be surprised. I've seen installations where
the installer didn't even bother to use duct tape, and half the conditioned
air was blowing into the basement. If you're visiting for a few days, call
the company. The owner might not even know about it. If you don't get any
satisfaction, be sure to tell everyone you know about the crappy
installation, but at least give them a chance to rectify the situation.
If your state has inspectors, you could give them a call too. I have a
friend who is an inspector for this type of stuff and doesn't take
complaints likely. Do this AFTER you've exhausted all possible
remediation with the company.
: My elderly father had his air conditioning unit replaced with a
: Where the A/C coils mount above above the forced air furnace,
the coils are
: a much larger size than the furnace. So maybe the furnace is 2
ft. wide and
: the coils above it are 2 ft 6 inches wide (just guessing). The
: the two is sealed with silver tape instead of a custom sized
: and looks crappy. Coils just resting on top of the furnace with
: covering the gap.
: Other installations I have seen have the same size coils above
: Furthermore, a duct was installed above the coils which is not
: size for the coils and there is about a 2" difference in size.
: this ducts meets the house duct work above, it also is a
different size with
: about a 1" difference is size. Again these gaps are sealed with
: In other installations I have seen, they have a duct made which
: correct size to transition for the top of the coils to the
house duct work.
: Basically this is the worst looking A/C install I have ever
seen. But my dad
: says it works OK, keeps him cool. So is this type of work
common by HVAC
: installers? To use whatever duct they have on hand and use tape
to seal the
Probably a dumb question, but:
Any chance there was an effort to "help" Dad by using what was on
hand instead of higher priced parts? Were the charges
accordingly lowered for the schlock job, and maybe labor too?
If not, I think I'd take the excellent advice offered by the
other posts here so far.
Even if they were, I think I'd still want to know the details
of the "favor".
I'd also add the BBB to the list - they do sometimes get results
and if not, well at least you get the complaint listed for others
to find. I've had two experiences using the BBB: One made a big
difference, the other not. So I got at least a 50% result, plus
the satisfaction of an open complaint that'll stay on their books
I think I'd look in another direction too - if this was a
"standard" job, why were the incorrectly dimensioned part used
and so on?
The size of the inside coil is not the issue here. Older furnaces rarely
match up with newer coils. The problem is, that the job looks like crap,
even to a non-professional. Even with extensive duct re-working, the job
could have, and should have looked nice. When the guy was done, he should
have been able to step back, look at it, and think to himself that he did a
As for the BBB, they are a profit making, business oriented organization.
They make their money by getting paid by member businesses. If you think
they are consumer oriented, do a Google newsgroup search on them.
The BBB...oh yea...complain, and all the owner has to do is send a letter to
them telling them that they are done with the issue, to bite off a big old
end, and that the customer was satisfied (even if hes not) and they remove
The BBB is a damn joke.
The local licence board.....the local inspections board....those are NOT
I did something similar on a DIY project where the old AH just couldn't be
matched, but I fabricated aluminum angle, sheet metal screws, and foam tape
to make a neat and sturdy adaptation. Works fine.
Foam tape isn't going to be sturdy or workmanlike, but it could very well
hold up for as long as needed.
You might want to consider getting a roll of UL181A-P listed aluminum foil
tape. The kind used for fiberglass duct board. If the surface is clean, it
will last for years, and create a tight seal. DO NOT get the type of foil
tape that has reinforcing strings. They can start falling off after a few
years. For this reason, a lot of codes are starting to require foil tape
with UL181 specs.
every thing costs money, fabricating some thing takes labor and
metal tape is used in tons of applications, it is better
then duck tape. In alot
of of new installations I have seen they will
use the metal tape for seems
through out the house , Such as clothes
dryer ducting, stove hoods, It probably
would be 200 more just to have
it look pretty. Who is going to pay for the extra
labor? Now if the
intaller had some thing made to make it look nice and he
screwed up his
measurements and slapped on the metal tape to cover up. Then you
good beef. Call up the company and ask them why they did it the way
For the record, dryer ducts are supposed to be sealed with a metal tape,
and/or mastic. No screws. Same with a kitchen hood vent duct.
Every seam is to be sealed with a tape, and the metal tape with UL181A-B
designation meets most all local codes.
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