How to connect 4 primed cable to 3 holes electric outlet?

[Tom]

Hi,

I bought a relatively new electric range(Stove) to replace our broken one. The "new" KitchenAid stove pig-tail has four primes, while the outlet on the wall has only three holes. What should I do?

I was thinking there is some kind of adapter that I can directly insert it to the 3 holes outlet on the wall and on its back there are four holes. But the Home Depot people said that they have never seen that kind of adapter. I am very surprised for that.

I called KitchenAid service helping line. They told me to replace the pig-tail. I bought a three primed pig-tail at Home Depot. But, I found it is very, very hard to unscrew the original one. Now, I am thinking to change the outlet on the wall to four holes outlet by myself. Is this OK?

Thank you very much.

[Tom]

I really don't understant why it needs 4 wires. My science education background tells me that one wire(ground wire) is connected to ground to let the eletricity escape to ground instead of to my body(shock). Why need the fourth one?

When I opened the back cover on my stove, I saw the fourth one(green one) is connected to the stove metal skin and is connected to the third screw (the white wire). Since the 3rd and 4th wires are already connected on the back of the stove, what is the purpose to have the pig tail with four primes?

[Doug Miller]

Call an electrician.

Considering that you don't appear to understand the electrical safety issues involved, I'd have to say, no, it's not OK. It is *not* sufficient simply to replace the existing 3-hole receptacle with a new 4-hole receptacle. It is also necessary to replace the cable feeding that receptacle with a cable having four conductors (two hots, neutral, and ground). If you don't understand why, you shouldn't even be thinking about attempting this yourself.

[gfretwell]

Can you see the writing on the cable that feeds your receptacle? If it says 8-3 / wg (6-3 /wg?) and has a red, black and white wire in it plus a bare ground you can replace the receptacle. Just be sure the white and bare are on the bus in the panel. It was common to pull a 4 wire cable to a 3 wire receptacle since the strict reading of the code implies the 3d wire should be insulated (it is a neutral, also used as a ground). The bare usually went to the box or back strap of the receptacle and the white went to the neutral/ground pin lug. If any of this seems confusing seek a pro.

[Joseph Meehan]

Not just a strict reading of the code any intelligent reading of the code requires it. Any intelligent prudent person will follow the code.

[Joseph Meehan]

The white wire is a current conductor. The bare or green is a ground and under normal conditions will not carry any current. They are connected to the same potentially at the breaker box.

[nicksanspam]

Given that connection, it has no purpose. You may rationally choose to follow your science education :-)

Nick

[gfretwell]

Study a little "Mr Ohm" and get back to us. If there is current flowing in that neutral it will develope voltage across it (E=IR) That will be reflected on the case of the stove. That is why we don't want current on grounding conductors.

[Greg Guarino]

Just for my own edification, the neutral in this case is needed because the stove needs 220v and 110v?

Greg

[gfretwell]

Yes, it will power the clock, oven light and whatever other 120v load there is. In the case of dryers the timer and motor is 120v

[Nick Pine]

"That connection" was at the stove case :-)

Nick

[Tom]

Good morning. Thank you all for your information.

I have replaced the 4 prone pig-tail with a 3 prone pig-tail already. It only took me about 5 minutes. The screw which the original green wire(4th wire) connects was left open and is not connected with any wire now. The other 3 screws connect with the 3 wires properly.

Stove is working fine. Clock, light is working fine.

The electric person at Home Depot gave the advice above.

[Doug Miller]

So now you have no ground connection for the frame of the stove. Do you think that's a good idea?

And everything will continue to work fine, unless the unit develops a fault to ground. Then the case will be live.

Did you ever ask yourself why, if he's qualified to give electrical advice, he's working at Home Depot?

[Mark Lloyd]

So your stove is not grounded?

[gfretwell]

There should be a grounding jumper that connects the neutral to the frame, connect that.

[kevin]

No, don't. Call an electrician before you hurt someone.

The neutral carries live current pretty much all day long. You want a proper 4 wire setup, and you are obviously too ignorant (and stubborn, and possibly stupid) to realize that you are making mistakes at every turn.

-Kevin

[Stormin Mormon]

The fourth one is a neutral. For any 110 volt circuits within the stove (clock, lights, etc.)

To do it right, you need a dedicated neutral for the fourth lead.

[Stormin Mormon]

Since the stove is wired with the white and green tied together, we might guess that there are no 110 volt items in the stove. But, we might be wrong.

[Stormin Mormon]

Dear Tom, First, the blade on a plug might be a "prong" which is something sticking out. However, a "prone" is something laying down. Second, leaving the green unconnected sounds unwise. That's the safety connection. If I was going to leave one connection open, I'd leave the white open. You now have an ungrounded appliance. The HD guy may not have given you the best advice.

[Stormin Mormon]

That's rather candid, but it sure sounds like good advice.