I love those vacuum desoldering stations, I had one sold by ECG back in
the late 70's and like you said, a DIP chip would often fall out in your
hand after sucking the melted solder off the circuit board. The ECG unit
was affordable by just about any electronic tech back then.
Good grief what a lot of posts, all about anything but what the OP asked as
far as I can see.
To tin a soldering iron get a wet sponge.
Let the solder tip reach full temperature. They make little trays with
sponges in them just for ths purpose at Radio Shack & other electrical
supplies & box stores.
Wipe the hot tip on the sponge, moving it fast enough to not burn the sponge
(the water makes it easy) & dislodge the oxidation.
If a wet sponge doesn't work well enough, it might be necessary to gently
scrape the tip with a knife or any blade, held at right angles to the tip.
Then a few swipes across the sponge again on the tip, and it should take a
It's in "good shape" when resin-core solder covers the tip in a nice,
usually shiny coat of solder. Shake off the excess solder. Done. It'll do a
much better job of transferring heat to whatever you are soldering if the
tip is clean and tinned.
Many people get the little tray with sponge and set it near the work so
if/when oxidation starts, a wipe or two on the sponge will renew the tinning
Ths same informatioin is available many places on the web; especially
That would be the stuff.
Not the best idea for electronic soldering because of the hydrochloric
acid that co-exists with the ammonia, and is the active material
involved in removing the oxide scale from the copper.
On 11/30/2010 1:39 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
No problem, most of it gets scrubbed off in the 2nd step with the brass
wool anyway. And I have seen hundreds of cases of my soldering on
circuit boards 15-20 years later and there has been no problems.
On 11/28/2010 11:26 PM, B_ email@example.com wrote:
If you're not doing domestic plumbing, (and you wouldn't be with a
soldering IRON) then get you some REAL solder. Then file the tip shiny
whilst cold, then heat it and stick it in some solder paste, THEN the
REAL solder will flow on to it quite well. If the tip gets too hot
and/or oxidized, you'll never get it to flow properly.
remove the "not" from my address to email
On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, B_ firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical. Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the right
solder for the application.
If you have trouble tinning it is either because you can't get the
solder hot enough or the tip is not clean enough. Sounds to me that you
are using the wrong solder, too large and wrong type.
I always just used a damp folded up paper towel to wipe the tip. You
can sand or file the tip if you need to get one more use out of it,
I heat the junction and feed in the solder at the junction, not on the
tip. But close to where everything meets.
I was in the electronic repair business just about forever. I wound
up soldering stuff I could barely see (SMD LSI) even with reading glasses!
The wire should get hot and soak up the solder, right?
This 95 SN 5 SB stuff may be the European solder. From what I have read
they have gone lead free in the electronics soldering. Also you are not
suspose to mix the two when repairing the equipment as they do not work well
I don't even like that sn/sb for soldering pipes. I still have a couple of
pounds of the 50/50 tin/lead solder for my pipes if I need it.
About 30 years ago my wife and I were watching tv about the moonshine
makers. They mentioned the lead in the pipes and I told here one day the
trr huggers would say not to use the lead solder in the pipes. Sure enough
, they have.
Not necessarily true - the lead free solder madness has hit
electronics like a frieght train. ROSIN CORE solder is NOT plumbing
Lead free electronic solder is a royal pain - period.
The wire should get hot and the solder should wick up the wire.
Putting the solder at the junction of the iron and the wire - or on a
printed circuit, more correctly at the junction of the pad and the
iron, enhances the heat flow. When the solder wets the pad, you slide
the iron against the component lead, and the solder should very
quickly wet the lead as well, forming a smooth fillet from the pad to
the component lead (or wire).
I know Smitty will likely argue with me, but tough.
On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:07:07 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
Bullshit. Leaded solder works just fine with unleaded parts. Better, in
fact, because you can use lower temperature. The parts, and tools, will be
"contaminated" but that doesn't matter for US consumption.
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