My 1200 watt ETQ generator has been miserable.
Starts on ether, after endless pulls on the
starter cord. Really giving me trouble.
I'm running pure gas, 91 octane. Yes, the gas
is a couple months old. But, last week it ran
fine in my chain saw. So, it's not totally stale.
I'd heard of Splitfire spark plugs, supposed
to be good. Went to Home Depot, they have E3
plugs with a strange end on them. Well, try
Lowe's instead. They had the same plug. So, I
broke down and bought one. $5.97 for a spark
plug, that's insane.
Got home, put the plug in. Generator started
on the 4th pull. No need for ether. I'm pleased.
As with most machines, generator needs to be run
now and again.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
About ten or so years ago, I bought a used snow blower.
The guy swears it worked fine. The fuel had specks of
black, which repeatedly clogged the carb jet (two stroke
Tecumseh). I put inline fuel filter, and that helped a
lot. Wonder if that was a problem with gasohol?
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
I've been going through problems with 2 cycle engines. An Echo leaf
blower, purchased last year wouldn't start ... last year, after a few
months. I went back to the dealer and he said the gas was old. Give me
a break. He proceeded to start it. I noted the choke and whether or
not to give it gas, during pulling. This year, it just wouldn't run
properly. It would start but would die if you tried to speed it up.
Can't adjust the stupid carb because of stupid EPA rules (probably
started in CA). I finally built a tool to fit the recessed micro D
shaft controls and it now works pretty good. I've been going nuts
trying to find the proper tool, but nobody will sell them because "they
are not allowed to do so." I really need the "official" tool, but they
seem to have vaporized in the market. I guess I'll have to do what a
friend suggested, disassemble the carb and put a screwdriver slot in the
end of the needle valve using a MotoTool.
Sorry for ranting. But, on my old Coleman generator, 8HP, 4KW, it
behaved very much like you describe. I always had to use starting
fluid. Finally, when one of the needle valves stuck and the carb
overflowed, I had to take it apart. I cleaned it up, reassembled it,
and tried to start it. Worked the same as before. Adjusted the carb,
while watching the output frequency, and after that, it pretty much
started without starting fluid. The one crazy thing was, you had to
start it at full choke and immediately after the 1st pop, back off the
choke ... really needed to people, one to pull and one to adjust the
choke. But, it pretty much would start after the 1st or 2nd pull.
I was always told not to use gas with ethanol. I'm not sure how much
difference this actually makes. One of the local small engine guys told
me that 95% of his business was ethanol related. I did find 2 stations
that sold non ethanol gas here in my small town. I will be using that
With small engines, I replace the plug every other year, well before
it's needed. I can't remember the last time I changed a plug on a
car. It was probably when I had so many problems with the wiring on
my '93 TSI (blew a set of wires every year).
On Wednesday, October 9, 2013 8:29:20 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I start my generator on the first weekend of every month and let it run for
about ten minutes to get up to operating temperature. Since we're heading
into winter, I did the same with the snow blower this month, October. In th
e spring I switch from starting the snow blower monthly to starting the til
Sandblasting made sense when a plug cost half an hour's wages or
more and the engines were made of iron. Doesn't make sense when a plug
costs less than 20 minutes labour and the engine has aluminum parts
that are quickly damaged by any grain of sand that gets stuck in the
plug and falls out in the engine.
I haven't sand-blkasted a plug in close to 30 years.
If I get a black one in an engine that won't start I just warm it up
with a torch until the insulator is clean and white. If that fixes it
- good. If not - new plug time.
Back in the day, plugs did not last too long before they fouled out. Buying
6 or 8 would cost a lot in those wage days. Sand blasting was fine then.
Seemed like I was replacing the plugs and points around every 10,000 miles.
This was the 1961 and 1965 cars I had.
Now plugs in many cars will go 100,000 miles or more. You may change one
set in the life of many cars.
For small engines it pays to change a plug often so it will start. While it
did not need it, I would buy a kit for the riding mower that had the
filters, oil and new plugs. The plugs got changed every year with the other
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