I had my A.C./heat pump serviced today. The tech is suggesting adding something called a "hard start" to the compressor starting circut which supposedly reduces wear on the motor. And costs almost $200.
I have never heard of this. Have any of you and is it a good idea?
It's an extra capacitor and start relay. $200.00 is 2 to 4 times what I would charge if I added it on during the same call. ^_^
TDD
Thanks for this link, which led me to Google which led me to suppliers.
It seems that the hard start is a good idea, but they are charging a lot for them. Only $40-50 if I install it myself.
A hard start is usually used for compressors that are "hard to start" usually close to end of life. It is basically just a capacitor. I hope you get a reach around too for that $200. You can buy the kit retail for about $30 and the HVAC guy pays about $10. Hook up 2 wires.
I've heard of hard start kits. I use them when the outdoor unit compressor won't start. If yours works, save your money. As a couple other techs have said, the guy is a bit over priced, too. I'd gently pass, on this one. And look for another tech.
Thanks all for your responses. Unit has been working fine so I am going to (probably) pass on getting the hard start unit. My house lights do not dim when the unit starts which I understand is one of the symptoms of needing the hard start. But just to make sure, I will call the manufacturer (Rheem).
If it needed a hard start kit when operating normally, don't you think Rheem would have put one in?
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A hard start kit for the compressor is ONLY needed if the compressor doesnt come online right away when a call for cooling occurs by the thermostat . It is useful for tight old compressors or for low voltage conditions and/or for a/c systems that dont equalize the internal pressure quick enough before the next cooling cycle occurs. $200 installed is a tad on the high side unless hes going to be servicing the whole unit at the same time.
If you have a digital thermostat, see if there is a start up delay that can be programmed into it for keeping the compressor from short cycling. I set them anywhere from 3 to 5 minutes. If the power blinks or the AC stops after reaching its set-point and someone immediately sets the temp down calling for cooling, the time delay prevents the compressor from trying to start before systems pressures equalize allowing the compressor to start under the least load. If you have a mechanical thermostat, a timer can be added out at the condensing unit inside the electrical junction box. In rural areas where power go out frequently during storms, I'll add anti short cycle timers and surge arresters to the inside and outside units to protect the capacitors and circuit boards.
TDD
Hello, I have a Rheem heat pump, model Rpnl-043jaz. The lights in my house all flicker every time it goes on....Will the hard start kit resolve this problem?
Can't hurt. How much is the AC company charging?
Hello, I have a Rheem heat pump, model Rpnl-043jaz. The lights in my house all flicker every time it goes on....Will the hard start kit resolve this problem?
****Your question is will the hard start kit help any, Well I will say with experience that I had it will not hurt any. However must likely your service is undersize, you could have line to long between your property and transformer that is someplace on the poll. Usually what you are describing the supply line is not large enough to give amount of current at startup, remember startup could be four (4) times running condition, so start up kit could help but eliminate ?NO?
A hard start might actually make that worse. It does just what it implies. It adds an extra capacitor to the motor to kick it harder on the start. This is used when the compressor is getting old and will not kick over reliably on it's own.
If your connections are solid from the utility, it may just indicate that your service conductors are too long or too small.
That was my thoughts also. That the hard start kit might make it worse as it should cause the motor to draw more current on startup. Unlike some devices that ramp up the motors slowly.
Could be loose connections of the house wiring or just too small of wire feeding the house.
I don't know about the Rheem unit, but I was looking at some of the Trane units and they have what seems to be a hard start kit already in them.
It is worth being sure there is not this kind of protection in the unit or in the thermostat already. They seem pretty ubiquitous these days.
Or that maybe the cap that is there is going bad? Has that been checked?
A slight flickering is normal on central hvac startup, depending on the size of the unit and the panel amperage rating. If the unit is equipped with a hard start pack, it may not cause any flickering/dimming effect when powered up.
If it doesn't have this hard start pack though, it could cause the flicker/dimming without anything actually being 'wrong' with the OPs electrical system.
On a dead stop, the motor is pulling more amps than it would during a run phase; a considerable amount more, actually. The additional (but temporary) request for more amps is causing the temporary flickering or dimming effect. A hard start kit if properly installed and of sufficient size for the compressor it's going to be used with, should reduce if not outright eliminate the dimming effect because it's taking some of the load stress off the power source. Atleast, that's been my experience and that of others I know who do hvac professionally for a living.
Agree with your other points, but not this one. When you put a cap in a DC circuit on the power input to an amplifier, it does act as a reservoir. It's fully charged during light or normal loads, when the amp has a sudden increase in power needed, that cap can supply some of it and being close to the destination, it can do so without the impedance effects of many feet of wire.
However, I don't think a hard start kit works that way. If it did, it could only be effective for 1/120 of a second, because that's all the initial charge that's there prior to starting will last. After that the AC voltage has reversed, the cap is drained, there is no reserervoir and it's being charged in the opposite direction. Current is needed through the AC supply to go into the cap and to supply the motor which is trying to start. So, unless the motor gets over it's starting difficulty in 1/120 of a second, I don't see how the cap can be helping by being a reservoir like it is in a DC circuit. I think the hard start kit probably works by creating more phase shift to the start winding, which will go on as long as the cap is in the circuit.
Agree. Best evidence of this is that they are often installed when the motor has started blowing fuses. That's what happened with my old AC. Once the kit was put in, no more blown fuses for 15 more years until it was replaced, while still working. If it increased the demand instead of moderating it, you'd have blown fuses, tripped breakers, and they wouldn't work.
Agree with your other points, but not this one. When you put a cap in a DC circuit on the power input to an amplifier, it does act as a reservoir. It's fully charged during light or normal loads, when the amp has a sudden increase in power needed, that cap can supply some of it and being close to the destination, it can do so without the impedance effects of many feet of wire.
However, I don't think a hard start kit works that way. If it did, it could only be effective for 1/120 of a second, because that's all the initial charge that's there prior to starting will last. After that the AC voltage has reversed, the cap is drained, there is no reserervoir and it's being charged in the opposite direction. Current is needed through the AC supply to go into the cap and to supply the motor which is trying to start. So, unless the motor gets over it's starting difficulty in 1/120 of a second, I don't see how the cap can be helping by being a reservoir like it is in a DC circuit. I think the hard start kit probably works by creating more phase shift to the start winding, which will go on as long as the cap is in the circuit.
*** I am sorry but you need little more knowledge about Capacitors And how are used. In his application capacitor is always drained and it is use for two reasons to limit current and keep compressor running in "right direction" in AC systems. In DC system are used as surge or spiking Limiters and yes it could be use as instantaneous supply like in Cameras are even car start up but they always must be connected to source before it can be used that is why you need to wait to charge before your flash on camera will work and if capacitor start to leak you lose both. This Capacitors are call (ELECTROLYTIC) they are not consider Caps.Agree. Best evidence of this is that they are often installed when the motor has started blowing fuses. That's what happened with my old AC. Once the kit was put in, no more blown fuses for 15 more years until it was replaced, while still working. If it increased the demand instead of moderating it, you'd have blown fuses, tripped breakers, and they wouldn't work.
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