I had a home for sale the home inspector wrote up the sump pump was
not GFCI protected, sump pump was in garage. So I added the GFCI, but
the sale fell thru:(
the 2nd home buyers inspector wrote up that the sump pump should NOT
be GFCI protected......
there was no way to win.......
selling that home was a nightmare.....
the 2 different inspectors reports had nearly nothing in common, and
inspector 2 had the first inspectors report
And apparently neither knew that the code requirements in virtually
cases are not retroactive. Meaning that whatever applied when the
outlet for the sump pump was put in is all that needs to be met.
With the view they had it's a wonder they didn't come up with a
whole list of crap.
On 8/6/2012 10:29 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
That's the idea. Come up with a long list to help the buyer knock the
price down. In my business, I get this all the time, and I generally
mention that not a stitch of the 1975 wiring in this house meets current
code,so why just pick on the non ground fault protection for all the
kitchen counter outlets, lets gut this puppy. Can't tell you how many
letters I've written as well, refuting "home inspectors". But in the
end, it usually comes down to it being a buyers market or sellers market.
On Sat, 04 Aug 2012 01:43:05 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
The "disconnect" does not NEED to be "protected" - it is there for
safety reasons - so you can cut the power quickly in case of a
malfunction/emergency. As I stated before, I would use a 240 volt
disconnect at the door and tie the 2 cables together at both ends -
sharing the neutral - and mark appropriately.
On 8/7/2012 8:10 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Who said anything about "protected"?
As dpb said several days ago (and quoted above) the NEC wants the
disconnect "at the nearest point where it enters the building rather
than by the door."
Paralleling the neutrals is a code violation and not necessary.
borrowed from different post:
> Use a fused or breaker type subpanel in the outbuilding
A breaker subpanel in the shed for 2-20A circuits? All that is required
is a simple switch. As the OP said (quoted above) "it would be senseless
to put another 20A breaker for each circuit in the shed."
But no problem. Holmes will fix the wiring you do when he discovers it.
On Fri, 3 Aug 2012 07:06:25 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
Not saying it is code compliant, but to meet the INTENT of the law,
I'd tie the 2 neutrals together and use a fused 2 pole (240 v)
disconnect, grounded with the one existing bond wire - connected to a
"tied" 240 volt breaker at the main panel - giving the capability of
using as a 240 volt supply if required. Use a fused or breaker type
subpanel in the outbuilding
He has 5 wires, total...one 12/2 w/G another 12/2 w/o
Rather than all that which isn't compliant either (not supposed to have
multiple cables making up one circuit) he might as well just use the one
3-wire from a double-pole supply breaker and go to a box in the
outbuilding and then from there the internal circuits. He can have both
that way (assuming he uses an appropriate box, of course). He'll still
be limited to the overall capacity of the 12 AWG wire but sounds like
pretty small loads any way.
What he loses is that at the moment he does have two 20A circuits.
I missed that in the original post, but that would make the installation
easier having a dedicated ground wire. Just cap off and ignore the extra
white neutral wire (you would still have to do some testing with a meter to
determine which wire you are using).
Agreed, but it's kind of too late to be completely code compliant at this
point and still have two circuits. Electrically, the four wires in the two
cables would be no different than running four individual wires in conduit.
The rest is a typical subpanel installation.
I would make it all up as I described. If he ever digs up the line and
installs conduit and the proper wires, it would be an easy conversion.
As RBM posted, that wouldn't provide two 120V circuits with neutrals and a
ground. The method I posted does, and also leaves the option for a 240V
circuit if you need that.
Yep, by not planning ahead, the original poster has seriously limited what
he can do. Still, he's probably not going to have more than a light and an
outlet or two in a shed.
I ran conduit to my shed, with 10 gauge wire to support a 30A subpanel.
That's way more than I'm likely to need, but I can always pull that out and
feed bigger wire if I need to.
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