It's the integral of heat over time.
My front shingles facing north still looked good after 25 years, when
my rear shingles facing south looked terrible. I could only see the
roof from the front, or from the rear if I was up on a ladder.
family in the sun drenced phoenix report roofs dont last long there,
the sun bakes them out.
metal roofs arent common either cause they tend to warp.
ceramic tile roofs there are supposed to be the best and last a 100
years if properly installed to begin with
I'll disagree to the extent of scrapping the turbines. You are correct that
they don't work as efficiently when there's no wind - although some heat
escapes through those 18" holes - but when there IS a wind, they will move
an enormous amount of hot air. Plus, they do it at no electrical cost!
As for cosmetics, they can sometimes be installed below the ridge line so
they're not easily visible from the street.
And speaking of ridges, be sure to install a ridge vent. These are dirt
cheap and will probably give you the biggest bang for the buck.
Note: None of these suggestions are meant to be exclusionary. Do 'em ALL.
Again, I'll slightly disagree. You're correct that one can't have too much
The usual standard is one sq ft of soffit venting for every 150 sq ft of
living space. If you've got a venting area 4' long and 6" wide on the
soffit, that's 2 sq ft. BUT, you've got to subtract the screening area. If
hardware cloth type screening, subtract maybe 10% of effective venting. If
it's that HardiPlank stuff with itty-bitty holes, subtract 98%.
That could very well happen.
But the same could be said regardless if the fan is wind-powered or
A fan that pulls outside air through the ridge vents and then exhausts
that air right back outside will nonetheless create air currents inside
the attic and it will lower the temperature of the warmest part of the
attic - the area in the peak or top part.
If you have a ridge vent then you probably have an inverted V style
roof, which means you could mount a fan on the side wall of the attic
(or both side walls) and have it blow outside air into the attic,
thereby helping to force the hotter attic air up and out through the
This is horrible advice. It demonstrates the understanding of basic
Forcing air from an "outside wall" inward would be taking in elements such
as water from something God created called rain. The fan would pull water
from the louvers of any vent.
You have absolutely no concept of building practices. You're nothing but a
So you're saying that a fan that's mounted flush to a vertical wall,
with a screen, and probably with a rain shield mounted over it's
exterior opening, is going to pull in air with such force that it's also
going to draw in any rain that just happens to be falling at the time
that the fan is being commanded to turn on by the thermostat that's
Did you ever consider the fact that if it's raining, that its probably
cloudy, and your attic fan controller might not sense that your attic
space is hot enough to require the fan to be turned on?
What exactly are you smoking?
You have little to no concept of physical reality.
I suggest you start taking your medication before your dimentia gets
Anyone that likes to get a tan in the summer will know this:
When the sun comes out from behind the clouds, the wind mysteriously
dies down. Then when the clouds come back - so does the breeze.
That fact doesn't help you when your chosen method of active ventilation
is wind powered.
Attic fans (typically 1/8 or 1/10 hp) consume pennies of electricity a
day. Worth the cost when they give you a reliable, dependable CFM of
air movement when you want it.
Depends on the style of roof.
Once upon a time, soffits were faced with 1/4 plywood, and you had to
buy and install screened vents that were visible and you had to do a
nice job of cutting the hole and positioning and installing the vents so
you wanted to install the minimum necessary if you were the builder.
But it was a pain in the ass as a home owner to paint the soffits every
5 or 10 years so you got them covered in aluminum, and with slotted
sheeting it wasn't a hassle anymore to create venting anywhere you
wanted it - including the entire length of the soffit. The only problem
is that unless you cut more holes in the original plywood facing, the
extra aluminum venting will do you no good.
For new construction, you don't even need to put the 1/4" plywood facing
on the underside of the soffit any more. Just mount your J-channel and
slide the perforated aluminum soffit sheeting into place.
The problem with having one vent every 4 or 6 rafters is that you won't
get much airflow along those rafters that don't have a vent down at
their soffet end. Air will preferentially flow along those rafters that
do have a matching vent where they meet the soffet.
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