I wanted to add, I have maybe 3 in the house I leave on all the time.
Partly for my kittys, and partly, it saves flicking the switch.
My LED's inside are on all the time, and are attached to a battery
backup. There are some in bathroom and kitchen under cabinet.
Will add some more when I finish basement.
I bought half dozen LED bulbs a year ago for testing. One inside garage,
one outside on a patio light pole, one in my study/ One outside
did not last long, a few moonths, one in the garage there after.
3rd one is still working. In our area street lights in new neighborhood
is all LED lighting some with solar panel.
I count 14 I have around the house. I run the interiors at 50-100
and they will last a looong time. I'm pushing at 3 watts two to spot
People will start to get smart and light only the area they want lit.
is easy. Its not usually necessary to light the whole room.
Right. Cats have night-vision six times more sensitive than humans (or
dogs). Cats have a membrane at the back of the eye (the Tapetum) that
reflects light back for the eye to get a second go at detecting it. Other
animals have this too, most notably deer. This membrane is why a cat's face
illuminated by a flashlight in the dark looks like two headlights (or why
the same thing occurs with a spotlighted deer).
Cats also see in color (dogs in black and white).
I looked at the specs (more digging to do), but it's *not* cheap ($2 in reels
of 2K from DigiKey, so perhaps $1.50 in the real world). All the crap that
goes around it is another buck, perhaps. Uplift that to retail and it's more
It also dumps 10-20% as heat. CFLs already run hot, so...
It is quite interesting, though. Thanks.
Converting AC to DC costs more like 50 cents than $100.
For that matter, in the usual screw-base CFLs, the with-the-bulb
electronic ballast starts with changing the AC to DC for the electronics
to work with. The electronic workings even changes the DC back to AC of a
higher frequency - generally, fluorescents have one end getting starved
of mercury if forced to work for long on DC.
There is even a bit of history of some fluorescent fixtures made to use
where available power of suitable voltage was DC ande not AC - the
ballasting was different and the switch had a 4-pushes-per-full-switch-cycle
design to reverse polarity of DC applied to the fluorescent bulb every
time it was switched on.
- Don Klipstein ( email@example.com)
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