replying to Rebel1, roger leahey wrote:
I fixed this problem, even though my fix appears to be different from the other
answers. The fix is simple lubrication of the wheels and associated axel.
My mower is a one year old Honda HRR1216VKA. Wheels locking up when pulling
the mower backwards appear to be a common problem, yet it is not listed in the
It’s a good idea to follow the recommendation that says after mowing, turn
off the gas line and let the engine run until the gas in the line runs out. You
are going to be turning the mower over on both its sides and I think this may
minimize gas flooding into the engine.
Hose out the underside of the mower deck, as usual after mowing. Also hose out
the space between the wheels and the deck to remove sand/grass/dust/dirt. Of
course, be careful not to get water into the carburetor, or to get the air
filter wet, but I’ve never had a problem with this. Before going to the next
step, I let my mower dry overnight.
Next, remove the air filter to prevent it from possibly getting wet with oil
when you turn the mower over on its side with the gas cap near the ground.
Lubricate the all moving parts associated with the wheels and the wheel axel.
Lubricate where the axel shaft goes into the wheel and where the axel shaft goes
into the metal box that covers the drive belt. I use “Zoom Spout” oil, and
with the mower in its normal position, I use the spout to try and oil where the
axil rod enters the inside of the wheel. Turn the mower over on both sides and
apply the oil to the axel and wheels. This should free up the wheels.
Next, do the simple procedure to adjust the drive cable. For my mower, you
simply move the palm paddles to the lowest position and then tighten the cable
nut one rotation at a time until you feel resistance; then you loosen the cable
by eight turns. Now your cable is correctly adjusted. See your mowers
Do you have a Honda with the two blade mulching system? This method is
obsolete. I threw my two blades in the trash and bought a single blade of the
new “alligator” type. The blade is tempered steel, mulches way better and
keeps its edge longer. My blade is a Oregon Gator Mulcher 3-N-1 Blade For
21-Inch Honda Lawn Mowers 90-651
On Friday, April 8, 2016 at 12:44:05 PM UTC-4, roger leahey wrote:
IDK about an Oregon Gater Mulcher, but I had a Honda with their two blade
system and it did the best mulching job, way better than any mower I've
ever owned. It cut the grass into much smaller, finer particles that
mostly disappeared. I just looked at the reviews on Amazon and they are
replying to trader_4, roger leahey wrote:
Before I threw my "two blade" system into the trash, I mowed two strips with
them and then mowed two strips with the new hardened steel Oregon Gator muncher,
side by side. The Oregon did way better. But there are variables we don't know
about, such as type of grass you have, mower wheel settings, and you don't say
whether or not you used an alligator blade or not to compare the two blade
system to. . Anyway, Honda did away with the two blade system and replaced their
two blades with the newer single alligator type blade. And mowing is enough of a
chore. I don't want to have to sharpen two blades. If their two blade system was
so great, I don't think they would have done away with them. If someone does
decide to switch to the alligator blade, be aware that I had a heck of a time
sharpening it because the steel is so hard. You can't just walk into Lowe's and
buy a file. You have to order a special "chipbreaker" hand file. I bought a 14
inch "Nicholson Flat Hand File, American Pattern, Chip Breaking, Rectangular."
That solved the problem. Do not use a grinding wheel on blades - it ruins the
steel temper. And I reiterate that as for the locked wheels problem, I have used
my fast and easy method more than once, and it has worked every time.
On Monday, October 10, 2011 at 1:50:19 PM UTC-5, Rebel1 wrote:
I have a Honda HRR2169VLA. I purchased it in 2012 because of the electric s
tart. I went to use it today and had the same issue as you stated. Ratcheti
ng noise moving forward and locked wheels pulling back. I removed a wheel,
the snap ring that retains the gear and the woodruff key / spring that make
the ratcheting sound. All seemed good. Next I removed the next snap ring a
nd the spacers that position the gearbox shaft in the frame. They were tigh
t on the shaft. Next the wheel height adjuster mechanism was exposed and I
found it frozen to the GB shaft. I pulled that apart, removed corrosion, gu
nk and lubed it up. After re-assembly it worked like new. I did the same t
o the other wheel as a preventive maintenance item.
replying to Rebel1, Brad Youmans wrote:
Basically what i found out (from lawnmower guy) the gears are going out. Thats
if it will not go forward either. So what he told me was its 120 to $175 to
replace transmission... or simply take both back wheels off and remove a gear.
Either the 1 on wheel or on deck. So i took a hammer and used claw of hammer and
took 1 out of wheel on both sides.( or take c clip off the 1 on the side of
deck). Now i have a push mower that moves freely with no self propelled. But for
money and my yard isnt that big it works.
I think the part is $110 or so on ebay, so (based upon my experience
replacing the transmission in my Troy-Bilt mower) I think he offered you
very good price. Having removed the "weakest link", you may now have a
mower that will last you "years and years". I am thinking about buying
a Honda like yours next. Good luck!
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