No, that's pretty much correct (if rather dated). "Oriental" literally
means somebody from "the East". Asia is usually defined as "East of
the Urals". Both are somewhat vague terms with meanings that have
changed over the centuries, but Wikipedia says the're pretty much the
The Orient means the East. It is a traditional designation for
anything that belongs to the Eastern world or the Middle East (aka
Near East) or the Far East, in relation to Europe. In English, it is
largely a metonym for, and coterminous with, the Continent of Asia.
Calling a Mexican a Spaniard is like calling somebody from the US
"English" or "British". Rather than being insulted, I think people
are just going to be puzzled over where you've been for the last 250
Either, both, maybe neither (it probably depends on the crowd).
Regardless of whether it's insulting, it's incorrect.
On Mon, 29 Sep 2014 21:41:56 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
I hear that about over engineering stuff. When I was getting ready to
pour the floor for my shop I calculated the concrete thickness for the
various machines and then though about what happens if I move a
machine and then what happens if I buy a heavier machine or one with a
smaller footprint and so on. Then I realized how pointless this was in
my situation, So I had the concrete poured to 7 inch minimum
thickness, had fiber put in the concrete, and I put rebar and wire
mesh in place before the pour. It's a good thing too because I later
bought a lathe that covers 10 square feet with the base and sits on 4
9 square inch pads and weighs 8000 lbs.
In days of yore I worked as a design engineer for heavy duty
steel mill and foundry equipment, but that was then and this is now.
For designs involving steel cable and human safety, the basic
safety factor applied was 5.
IOW, 14,000/5 = 2,800 pounds as the basic design limit.
Dynamic loading would apply another 50% derate.
IOW, 2,800*50% = 1,400 pounds for dynamic loads.
Based on the posts I have seen, your group needs some
serious help before people get hurt or worse.
Lew Hodgett, PE Retired
My last comments - this is not looking so good..
Bending a cable around a support weakens the cable - there is a formula
So that derates the cable strength from 10% to 60% depending on the
curve. Note too that they are using wooden standoff/chocks to hold the
wire, I hope they chamfered a notch - but in any case the load is not
consistent on the tree, rather it is concentrated on only a few of those
wooden chocks. This is a derating aspect too.
Looking at picture:
It looks like the cable does a bit of a sharp bend where it leaves the
standoff...this is potentially a real problem - kinks are possible. The
pinching of the cable at the clamps also derates the cable strength...
Wire Rope is certainly varied in structure. However I do keep seeing the
1:5 load factor (1/5 of rating) in various Wire Rope 101 pamphlets...
It does appear that the folks selling wire rope are only too happy to
advise in its use - your friends would be advised to show them the
proposal for comment before they put too much weight on these wire ropes.
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
What I forgot to include was that the above design loads are for
Bending loads require a further derate.
The reader is left to determine the value from any decent
structural engineering text.
And now you know one of the reasons why I'm retired.
Lew Hodgett, PE Retired
The neighbor "pays" me, in free soda, although I am complaining
about the intolerable working conditions nonetheless!
BTW, today we devised a (potentially ingenious) method to *level* the two
I couldn't snap a picture because we were installing WiFi rooftop radios
most of the day and I was using the cell phone for signal strength and
interference observations, so the battery had died by the time we got to
However, I'll explain in words, and later snap a picture for you, as to
how we devised a "tool" to measure the respective cable sag.
We made an 8-foot long T-Square out of two-by-fours, and we notched the
upper outside two ends of the top horizontal bar of the wooden "T" for
the cables to go in.
Then on the 8'foot long vertical leg of the huge T-Square, we put a level
on the side. We could easily see the 8-foot-long T-Square was "tilted".
It was getting late, so, later this week we will actually climb the big
redwood 100 feet away, and pull on one side of the cable or the other,
until the 8-foot-long hanging T-Square shows that the vertical leg is
At that point, the two cables will be level.
Seymore4Head wrote, on Tue, 30 Sep 2014 15:57:42 -0400:
He's about 6'2" or 6'3" tall.
And, those are the *small* redwoods halfway down.
The big redwood tree is another ten or twenty feet below that, downhill,
whereas the 100-foot long 10-feet wide suspension bridge will be level.
It's a "home engineering" project, in the Santa Cruz mountains!
Danny D. wrote, on Wed, 01 Oct 2014 11:09:36 +0000:
Sorry it took me so long.
Here's a picture of the method we used to level the two 100 foot cables:
We basically made a ten-foot wide T-square, where we used a level on the
vertical bar to measure how level the two cables were.
If they weren't so high off the ground on the very steep slope, we'd just
hang a lead weight from the midpoint of each cable, with an even length
of rope for each cable - but we preferred to work at the only *flat* part
along the entire 100 foot length of the two cables.
It was really difficult working in the trees to pull the cable around as
it's both very high up in the air, as you can see by this netting we
And, the last redwood tree downhill itself is pretty gnarly, as shown
here looking up at the same netting but from the safety of the ground:
Danny D. wrote, on Sat, 11 Oct 2014 05:38:07 +0000:
You can see the fencepost digger in that picture above, over to the left.
It wasn't easy, mainly because the California sediments are hard as rock
this time of year, and, we were roped to trees so we wouldn't fall down
the hill while we were drilling the fencepost hole in the slope:
It was my first fencepost hole in my life, so, I was surprised that the
two bags of concrete mix went in dry:
Being on a 45 degree slope, it was impossible to keep the water in the
hole, so, we tried containing it with a cut-off bucket - but it didn't
work all that well to contain the water:
The second fencepost hole, for the drawbridge-like structure, wasn't as
hard to drill as it was on a much (much) flatter portion of the hill
where a path crossed under the cables strung between the redwood trees:
The last step of the evening was to stain the boards that will be used
for the hundred foot long ten feet wide bridge from the top of the hill
to the far redwood tree:
On Sat, 11 Oct 2014 05:48:37 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
When i have seen that done it didn't work out that well, the concrete
never set properly. Sometimes it had to be dug out a few years layer and
done normally mixed before placement after removing the mush.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.