BUILDING A DECK

[parr6532]

If I use U-connectors to fasten 4" x 4" posts to pier blocks, is there a preferred time of year to build a deck this way, (i.e., will the posts shrink when cold weather comes and "lift" the bottom of the posts off the pier blocks)?

Also, does anyone want to share their experiences with "Wolmanized" lumber? I'm thinking of using Wolmanized decking boards over treated SYP joists.

Bonus question: The paint guy at my local HD sez to let my treated lumber deck dry for six months, use an oil based primer on the lumber, then paint it with exterior acrylic latex just as I would cedar siding. I do want a white deck (with "natural" finish Wolmanized decking boards). Does this painting scheme sound kosher? (I have no experience with painting treated lumber).

Many thanks for replies.

[Edwin Pawlowski]

The preferred time is when the wather is comfortable. If it is below 50 or above 85, I try to avoid manual labor outside.

Do not apply paint until the wood is dry, both on the surface and internally. Otherwise, as the wood dries out, escaping moisture will cause blisters and poor adhesion in the paint. We recommend a six month waiting period before applying paint (see more below). Once the wood is dry, the procedure for painting treated wood is no different from that for painting untreated wood. (We recommend against using paint on deck flooring because frequently used pathways, such as from the steps to the door, will become worn.)

[Ether Jones]

Several comments:

1) Whenever using oil-based paint or primer, the wood must be BONE DRY. If possible, allow 2 contiguous weeks of hot dry weather with zero precipitation, AFTER the 6-months of weathering, before applying any oil-based product. Any moisture in the wood will prevent the solvent from penetrating and getting a toe hold. You'll wind up with blisters and peeling.

2) If I understand your post correctly, you are NOT planning on painting the horizontal decking surface. That's a good decision.

3) However, you mentioned "natural" finish for the decking boards. Not sure what you mean by this. Treated wood still needs to be protected from moisture and UV or it will age prematurely. No UV protection and it will look like driftwood in 2 years. No moisture protection and it will start splitting and cracking and cupping.

4) There are so many different products for treating the horizontal surface of your deck that it is mind-boggling. It all depends on how you feel about maintenance. There are some very expensive products (2-part epoxy-based) out there which stand out from the crowd, but other than that you will have to treat your deck at least every 3 years and more likely every other year. For my 400 square foot deck, I re-treat it every 2 years with an oil-based finish that contains UV blockers. I goes pretty quick. The hardest part is cleaning the deck and waiting for the weather to cooperate to dry it out. Actual application of the finish goes very quickly - only about an hour or so.

[Tom The Great]

Comfortable sounds great. I was thinking if there was poured tubes and footings, the cold might cause problems with curing.

:D

tom @